The Pet Tree House - Where Pets Are Family Too

Monday, January 4, 2016

The Benefits of Spaying/Neutering Your Dog

Many folks hesitate to spay or neuter their pet, fearing that it’s painful and wondering what the actual benefits are. Here is a discussion of the procedure and why you should consider it for your dog.

What is it?

Spaying is the surgical removal of the reproductive organs of female dogs and neutering is the surgical removal of a male dog’s testicles.

Both operations are performed while the dog is under anesthesia. Your veterinarian may want to keep your dog under observation for anywhere from a few hours to several days. The length of the stay is dependent on your dog’s age, size, and health. Do not leave your dog overnight at the vet’s office if they do not have techs in attendance.

Certain procedures will require that you bring the dog back in a week to ten days for suture removal. Your veterinarian will be glad to answer any questions you may have about spay or neuter procedures, as well as help you determine the best age at which you should sterilize your dog.

Spaying or neutering is good for your dog

Spaying and neutering helps your dog live a longer, healthier life.

Spaying and neutering reduces, or can eliminate, a number of health problems that are difficult and/or expensive to treat.

Spaying greatly reduces the chance of mammary cancer, especially if your dog is spayed before her first estrous cycle, and also eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer.

Neutering will decrease the possibility of prostate disease and eliminates testicular cancer.

Spaying and neutering offers benefits for you too

Spaying and neutering makes your dog a better, more affectionate companion.

Neutering dogs makes them less likely to spray and mark territory.

Spaying a dog eliminates her heat cycle, which lasts an average of six to 12 days, twice a year. Females in heat can get blood on your furniture, exhibit nervous behavior, and attract unwanted male dogs to your home.

Dogs that are not sterilized often have more behavior and temperament problems than dogs that have been spayed or neutered.

Spaying and neutering can make digs friendlier, less likely to bite.

Neutering makes dogs less likely to wander looking for females or get into fights.

Spaying and neutering are good for your community

Communities spend millions of dollars to control unwanted dogs.

Irresponsible breeding is the root cause of most vicious dog bites and attacks.

Animal shelters around the country are overburdened with surplus dogs.

Stray and homeless dogs get into trash containers, urinate and defecate on private lawns and/or public property, and frighten or anger people who do not understand their misery or needs.

Some stray dogs scare away or kill wildlife and birds.

The cost to spay or neuter your dog is relatively low if you consider all the benefits you and your dog will reap over his lifetime, as well as the satisfaction of knowing you are doing your part to prevent the birth of even more unwanted animals.

Pet Owner Alert: Most Restraints for Pets in Cars Fail Crash Tests

Many pet owners enjoying taking their dog or cat for a ride in the car, but experts say that when you do, you should keep your pet restrained — for your own good as well as theirs.

"In the event of a crash they can be a projectile hurting everyone, including themselves," said Dr. Flaura Winston of the Center for Injury Research and Prevention at Children's Hospital of Philadelphia. She advises: "Keep your pets restrained on every trip."

But experts say many of the restraints being sold in pet stores don't work in a crash. In crash tests by the Center for Pet Safety, a nonprofit watchdog group, 25 of 29 products failed in one way or another.

To read more on this story, click here: Pet Owner Alert: Most Restraints for Pets in Cars Fail Crash Tests

A Woman Who Was Protected by Her Pit Bull After a House Fire Early December is Being Charged for an Arson

Landover Hills, Maryland - A woman who was protected by her pit bull after a house fire early December is being charged for an arson that happened on the previous day, Prince George's County Fire Department said.

The woman is being charged with multiple crimes in connection with the December 2 fire that happened in the 4800 block of 66th Place in Landover Hills.

A man was transported for minor burn injuries and then released from the burn unit. The woman was also taken to the hospital for a medical evaluation. Officials later learned of an unreported fire that happened the day before on December 1.

The unreported fire that happened on December 1 was an arson in an occupied home.

The 34-year-old woman, April Newell was determined to be the suspect. She is being
charged with arson first degree, arson second degree, arson threat, malicious burning first degree and malicious burning second degree.

She was arrested on December 31 and is being held on a $500,000 bond.

According to the authorities, the first that happened the following day, on December 2 is still being investigated.

A Couple Whose Dog Died Battling Cancer is Now Battling Stafford County and a Criminal Charge

A Virginia couple whose dog died battling cancer is now battling Stafford County and a criminal charge.

For about eight years, Travis and Aaren Evans say Buxton, their Labrador Retriever, was a part of their family. He even served as a volunteer dress-up friend to their 5-year-old daughter.

Travis Evans, who purchased Buxton, is now facing an animal cruelty charge, a Class 1 misdemeanor, after he brought Buxton in to a county animal shelter to be put down.

“I can’t have a misdemeanor on my record and try to keep a career to support my family. They can destroy my family," Travis Evans, a local government employee, said.

The couple told WUSA9 their 8-year-old Labrador Retriever had been fighting cancer.

“He was actually a good dog, we never had any problems with him until he had cancer," Evans said.

A few months before July of this past summer, Aaren Evans said Buxton had a biopsy done on an amputated toe. That is how doctors discovered the cancer. Travis Evans told WUSA9 by the time they got the results back, Buxton had another growth on his paw.

On July 2nd, Travis Evans said Buxton suffered a seizure but appeared to bounce back, so they did not take him to an emergency appointment Aaren had made.

Days later, the two said the 8-year-old lab was visibly weak. They said he was collapsing and decided it was time for euthanization.

On a tight budget, they chose to take Buxton to the Stafford County Animal Shelter, where the service is done for free for county residents. They claim, twice, Travis Evans was told they did not need to bring any documentation of Buxton's medical history.

Travis Evans went alone and said when he got to the shelter, a county animal control officer claimed the dog was seizing and soon after accused Travis Evans with not getting Buxton emergency care.

Depriving any animal of necessary food, drink shelter or emergency veterinary treatment is considered “cruelty to animals” according to a Stafford County code. But the couple says the shelter never told them to go to an animal hospital first and claims a shelter staff member lied about this in court.

“I’m up at night thinking 'did we do something wrong' because, at the first trial, they’re making us out to be monsters," said Aaren Evans.

WUSA9 called Stafford County for a statement but was told their animal control offices are closed on Sundays. The Commonwealth's Attorney's Office is also closed for the holiday weekend.

The Evans' attorney, Jason Pelt, told WUSA9 over the phone, the couple already knew their dog was very ill and added, "the Stafford County courts completely overstepped their boundary."

“He had cancer. That’s what happens to dogs with cancer. That’s awful ... And for this to be happening to us afterwards is awful," said Aaren Evans.

The couple's attorney appealed a judge’s ruling. Travis Evans will now go before a jury for Buxton’s death on February 23.

The 12 Most Common Plants That Are Toxic to Cats and Dogs

Cats and dogs don’t usually know what things make them sick, so their curious nature occasionally gets the best of them. To keep your pets safe, avoid having any of these common plants around your home.

This visual guide, from Pots Planters and More, provides information from the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, and Texas A&M regarding toxic plants that will harm or kill your pets. Not only does it list the plants, like castor bean, dumbcane, and oleander, it also lists what parts of the plant are toxic, how much of it is considered to be harmful, and warning signs that may signal your pet being poisoned. It also features photographs of each plant so you know exactly what you’re looking for. The ASPCA’s Poison Control hotline receives around 150,000 calls due to accidental pet poisonings, so it’s very important you keep these plants away from your pets. You can view the entire graphic below.

To read more on this story, click here: The 12 Most Common Plants That Are Toxic to Cats and Dogs

Strategically Placed Scratching Posts Could Save Your Furniture

Recently, we got a new couch. We’d had used furniture for a long time, and in a way, it allowed me to get lax — I never worried much about whether the cats scratched the furniture because it was ancient anyway, and not the most beautiful pieces in the furniture universe. I got lucky — I didn’t have a lot of trouble, though Kali (now deceased) loved to scratch a particular corner of an ancient futon. We got a washable cover to place on it, which generally seemed to make the cats want to scratch less, and it made me forget about the previous scratching.

But when we spent a few hundred dollars on a new couch, I started thinking more about providing good scratching options for my cats. I believed that cats would be more tempted to scratch if the fabric on the couch had an obvious nap (a texture that had something for the cats to grab onto and dig claws into), so I chose a microfiber that was smooth.

The saleslady (a cat person) said that when she purchased new furniture, she placed the cat scratching post in a prominent place in the living room. Picture a room with a couch, and a coffee table in front of the couch. The cat scratching post would replace the coffee table.

The saleslady theorized that the cats liked being the center of attention in the room and they would head right to the scratching post and use it. I wondered whether the cats enjoyed being the center of attention or the cat scratching apparatus had simply been placed in an area that was easier for the cats to use. Regardless, we had a few days until the couch actually, so I took the saleslady’s advice. We had a small cat scratching post. I knew it was inadequate (not tall enough, not enough scratching area), though the cats did love the little tube area to play in. I ordered a taller and more sturdy scratching post. We set them both in the center of the room, right in front of the couch.

To read more on this story, click here:

Strategically Placed Scratching Posts Could Save Your Furniture

How to Clean Cat Urine

Getting Rid of Cat Urine Smell

The lingering, pungent odor of cat urine is enough to make a homeowner with carpeted floors weep in despair. Besides the unhealthy air you’re breathing, the “mark” beckons your kitty to return again and again to that same spot. Here's how to get rid of the smell for good.

Play Detective

Black lights are unique in their ability to detect urine, blood, sweat, and other gross bodily fluids that contain fluorescent molecules. Pick one up at most any store – pet store, hardware store, discount department store. Wait until nighttime, turn out all your lights except for the black light, and mark the spots with something heavy (rocks work well) that your cat won’t disturb. Then get to deodorizing so whatever product you choose can work overnight.

Stop the Stink

Few things smell as bad as cat urine ripening in your home, which has made products reputed to de-stink your carpets a hot commodity. Enzyme-based cleaners and odor removal products claim to render the odor inactive (in my experience, they do not), and sealers (like Kilz) are reported to lock the odor away in walls and floors. But rather than spending a lot of money on chemicals that are bad for you and your animals, consider using cheaper and time-tested cleaners from your grandparents’ day.

To read more on this story, click here: How to Clean Cat Urine

Sunday, January 3, 2016

Tips for Maintaining a Clean and Healthy Bird Cage

Cleaning your bird's cage can at first seem like a tedious chore. With so many bars, cracks, and crevices to scrub, it can be hard for new bird owners to figure out where to start.

Setting and adhering to a cleaning schedule for your bird's cage is essential to keeping this job as easy to handle as possible. Breaking the process down into simple tasks to be completed daily, weekly, and monthly not only saves you time and energy, but ensures that your bird always has a clean and comfortable cage to live in.

Daily Cleaning

Dirty cages can lead to a host of serious health problems in birds. Certain cleaning must be done every day to minimize your pet's risk of infection. Follow these simple steps daily to make sure that your bird's cage stays in top condition.

Change the cage liner. In addition to being uncomfortable, it is unhealthy for birds to walk around in discarded food and droppings. Unchanged cage papers can also emit a very unpleasant stench. Avoid these problems by making sure to replace the liner of your bird's cage every day.

Clean Food and Water Dishes. Remove your bird's food and water bowls daily and wash them with a mild dish detergent. This will prohibit the growth of bacteria that can potentially harm your pet. Make sure to rinse and dry them thoroughly before placing them back in your bird's cage.

Wipe Down Surfaces. Using a damp rag or paper towel, spot clean the surfaces of the cage, including the bars, perches, and any toys. To clean stubborn, stuck on messes, use a bird-safe cage cleaner.

Weekly Cleaning

Decide on a certain day each week to complete weekly cage cleaning duties. Keeping up with these tasks helps to reduce the chance of germs and bacteria taking up residence with your bird.

1. Wash the Cage's Tray. Bird cages have a tray at the bottom that the cage liners are placed on. This tray should be removed at least once a week and scrubbed with a damp rag and cage cleaner. Remember to make sure that the tray is dry before putting the liners back in and replacing it.

2. Remove and Scrub the Grate. Some bird cages have a grate at the bottom of the cage, that hangs suspended over the tray so that the droppings fall through to the bottom. This grate should be scrubbed weekly to remove any dried droppings that may have collected on it. The easiest way to clean a grate is to place it in a bathtub and use a scrub brush to remove the waste. As with all cage parts, make sure that it is completely dry before returning it to the cage.

3. Clean and Change the Perches. Perches can also accumulate dirt and waste, and are a potential breeding ground for bacteria. They should, therefore, be soaked and scrubbed once a week to remove any germs that may be hiding on them. Some perches, especially the wooden ones, take quite a while to dry after they've been cleaned, so it's a good idea to keep a few "back-up" perches on hand. Put these in your bird's cage while the ones that you've cleaned are drying.

4. Clean and Rotate Toys. Much like human babies, birds use their mouths to explore and play with their toys. Once a week, any toys that are in your pet's cage should be removed, soaked, and scrubbed. As with the perches, it may be helpful to have a variety of toys on hand for your bird. That way, you can rotate the toys every week when you do your cleaning, effectively making sure that your bird does not get bored with his playthings.

Monthly Cleaning

Once a month, you should do a thorough cleaning of the whole cage. If it is not too big, the easiest way to do this is to remove the perches, toys, dishes, grate, and tray and place the entire cage into the bathtub. Those with larger cages often take them outside to a deck or patio, using a water hose to spray the cage off. Do whatever works best for you, but make sure to follow these important tips:

Use a Good Scrub Brush. Buy a sturdy scrub brush with durable bristles to scrub the bars and base of the cage with. Use a cage cleaner to help break down stuck on material that is hard to get off.

Make Sure to Scrub the Cracks. Bird cages, particularly at the base, often have many cracks and crevices that provide an ideal place for germs to grow. Use the bristles of the scrub brush to get down into any grooves in the bird cage, and don't forget to scrub the corners where the bars are welded together.

Rinse and Dry Thoroughly. Always remember to rinse every inch of the cage completely, to remove any remnants of cleaners or detergents. Once the cage is clean, wipe it down with a towel before placing your bird inside. Wet birds get chilled easily, so it is important to make sure that the cage is completely dry.

Maintaining a clean environment for your pet takes only a few minutes a day, but can possibly add years to your bird's life. Cleaning your bird's cage may seem like a lot of work, but you will find that if you stick to this simple schedule, you can complete the job with minimal time and effort. Do your part to make sure that your pet stays happy and comfortable by keeping his cage fresh, tidy, and germ-free.

Did You Know that Falls and Collisions with Cars Are the Most Common Ways a Cat Breaks a Bone

We usually think of cats as graceful and agile animals that can make impressive jumps. However, even the best athlete can miss. Falls and collisions with cars are the most common ways a cat breaks a bone. Attacks by other animals (and sometimes humans) can also result in bone fractures. The bones most commonly broken (or fractured) are the femur, pelvis, jaw, and tail.

What to Watch For:

The primary symptoms seen are from pain. Cats will try to hide their pain, so watch for these signs:

Crying, howling, moaning, or growling, especially if touched
Not walking, or not using a limb or tail
Not eating or grooming
Swelling or bruising at the injured area

Sometimes a broken bone will poke through the skin. This is called a compound fracture. In addition, there may be other injuries associated with the traumatic event that broke the bone, such as cuts, bruises, or disorientation.

Primary Cause:

A fracture is a crack or break in the bone caused by abnormal stress on the bone, usually from a traumatic event like a fall or being hit by a car.

Immediate Care:

The first thing to remember is that your cat is in pain, and animals in pain can bite, no matter how gentle they are normally. The second thing to remember is that an event severe enough to fracture a bone could cause shock and other not so obvious problems, some of which may not be detectable for days. Therefore, any home treatment is just to stabilize the injury until your cat can be seen by your veterinarian.

Any areas that are bleeding or where bone is sticking out should be covered with sterile gauze or a clean cloth if possible. The broken bone(s) should be disturbed as little as possible. Wrap your cat in a thick towel or put him on a rigid surface to carry him to your veterinarian.

Veterinary Care:

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will evaluate your cat’s overall health to assure that more serious problems are under control. Once your cat is stable, multiple X-rays of the suspected fracture(s) will be taken.

Treatment:

There are many factors that will determine how the fractures are treated. The most important are overall health, age, the bones broken, and the type of fracture that has occurred. A splint or cast may be sufficient for the lower leg, but not always.Often surgery will be needed to realign the bones and to place screws, pins (metal rods), wire, and/or metal plates to hold the pieces together.

Some fractures may be so severe as to require amputation, especially if the tail is involved. Fractures of the spine and pelvis will be treated by severely restricting activity (cage rest), with or without surgery. Pain medication will also be part of the treatment plan, and in some cases, antibiotics.

Other Causes:

Pathologic fractures are caused by anything that can weaken the bone, such as certain hormonal imbalances, bone infections, and bone cancer.

Living and Management:

The most important, and hardest, part of home care is restricting your cat’s activity, especially jumping. Any bandaging material will need to be kept dry. If it gets wet, especially from urine, or if there is odor or evidence of chafing, you will need to have the bandages checked and probably replaced. You also need to keep your cat from chewing on the bandages. The Elizabethan collar is the most commonly used device, but new collar styles and bandages that taste bad are also becoming more available.

Bones usually take 4 to 6 weeks to heal. Follow-up X-rays are normally taken to monitor healing. Fortunately cats seem to heal bones pretty well. Any metal parts that were surgically implanted to stabilize the bone will be left in place, unless they start causing problems.

Prevention:

Since most breaks are caused by traumatic events, limiting access to the outdoors will minimize injuries from automobiles and animal attacks. Pay attention to where your cat likes to go inside. If he likes walking along balcony edges or making risky jumps, try to restrict access to these areas.

Broken Legs In Dogs Are Common: How To Tell If Your Dog Has A Broken Leg

Broken legs in dogs are common. Dogs generally experience broken bones due to some kind of force or stress that their skeletal frame is unable to handle. If you are wondering how to tell if your dog has a broken leg, we’ve lined up all the signs that can help you figure it out.

How to tell if your dog has a broken leg:

How can you tell if your dog’s leg is broken? If you are wondering how to tell if a dog’s leg is fractured or broken, watch our informative video on the six symptoms that you should look for:

If you see any of these signs or symptoms (or a combination of these signs), you should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately for an examination and x-rays.

Visible Bone or Trauma: If you can see any actual bone sticking out or if your dog has a leg that is obviously in the wrong angle or position, there is definitely a bone-related issue (most likely fracture) that needs to be addressed.

Unwillingness to Bear Weight: When a dog has a leg injury, they often will be unwilling to bear weight on the hurt leg. Sometimes, they will pick up the leg and attempt to walk as a tripod.

Refusal to Play/Walk/Go up Stairs: A dog in pain may refuse to walk altogether or engage in normally playful activities. In such instances, there is a possibility that your dog is in pain because of a broken leg.

Watch for Unusual Aggression: A dog with a broken leg will often not allow you to touch their leg and will try to snap or bite if you come near their limb.

Howling or whimpering: If your dog is making unusual sounds, they may be in pain.

Loss of appetite/isolation: If your normally friendly dog starts to isolate himself and refuses to eat, there is usually some underlying medical issue. Combined with any of the previous signs, it could indicate pain from a fracture.

Causes of Broken Legs in Dogs:

Broken bones in dogs can be caused for a number of reasons. When a situation arises where an unusual or atypical amount of stress is exerted onto the bone of a dog, it can result in a break or fracture. Some common examples that can result in a broken leg in a dog include:

Jumping from a Height - Dogs often suffer from fractures when they attempt to jump off of furniture such as a couch or tall bed. Just like with humans, your dog’s size and physical strength will determine whether this is something you should be concerned about. For example, a 90 lb. Labrador may be able to regularly jump off a bed or sofa without injury, while a 4 lb. teacup Chihuahua or Maltese could very well suffer a broken leg from such a fall.

Pre-existing Injury – Dogs that have had a broken leg before can often reinjure or hurt themselves in the same spot because the limb is already weak. Even normal activities can cause problems if the dog’s is not properly set or strengthened after the initial injury. Make sure to speak with your veterinarian about preventive steps you can take to ensure that you are providing proper bone and joint support for your dog in such cases. Also check out our blog on 5 Ways to Strengthen Your Dog's Bones to see if you've been doing all you can do to keep their bones strong!

Landing on Hard Surfaces - When a jump from a height is combined with a hard surface, such as concrete or wood flooring, the impact can be much greater. Carpet or a rug can sometimes prevent a fracture, while wood or tile can cause one.

Getting Hit By a Car - Neo, the rescue dog who inspired Boneo Canine, suffered from a compound fracture after getting hit by a car. Dogs that get out of the yard or are somehow unsupervised on the street can break their legs by the impact of a car, and in many cases, even get killed.

Retractable Leashes - Retractable leashes may seem like a convenient way to give your dog freedom while maintaining control but they can be extremely dangerous for your dog, you, and anyone around you, especially if you have a rowdy or uncontrollable dog. Retractable leashes have the potential of wrapping around limbs and causing very serious leg injuries, from breaks to even amputations.

Rough-housing - If you have multiple dogs or take your dog to the dog park, they often can get outsized by other dogs. For example, if you have dogs that just go crazy to greet you at the door they can often jump over or on each other to be first in line. This can result in injury and even fracture.

Surgery– Certain orthopedic surgeries, such as a TPLO surgery, require the bone to be cut in order for the orthopedic issue to be addressed. A bone leveling or cutting procedure is supervised by a veterinarian, but is still considered a broken bone for healing purposes.

Is My Dog’s Leg Broken or Sprained?:

Sometimes, what may meet the signs of a broken leg (especially when there is no visible trauma) could actually be a sprain. If your dog is still willing to put a little bit of weight on the leg, or is limping after a particularly active day but otherwise no injurious activities, you may want to keep an eye and see if the situation improves over a day or so. It may be that your dog had a sprain/strain instead of a fracture. If you have noticed that your dog is suddenly limping, but can't tell whether it is serious, check out the following blogs: 15 Causes of Dog Limping and What to Do if Your Dog is Limping.

There are some key differences between a sprain and a broken leg but unfortunately, many of the signs look the same. Furthermore, sprains can also be serious, as sometimes they require surgery when there is a tear that cannot be treated with rest and a brace. Instead of attempting to self-diagnose, the only way to tell whether a dog has a sprain or a broken leg is to take the dog for a complete visual exam and x-rays at the veterinarian.

What to Do if You Think Your Dog has a Broken Leg:

If you think your dog may have a broken leg, read our post on How to Help a Dog with Broken Leg for specific instructions on how you should react. The key to a healthy recovery later on often lies in early detection and prompt treatment by a veterinarian.

Bone is a constantly remodeling and dynamic organ (yes, it's an organ!) and dogs have instincts that will allow them to adapt even when the bone is set improperly. But when a fracture is not addressed properly, the malformed bone can eventually result in infection, require surgery, and sometimes even amputation.

What You Need to Know When the Veterinarian Releases Your Pet from the Hospital

Once your pet is out of the operating room and on his way home, it’s up to you to help him feel more comfortable, so the healing process can begin. Here, what you need to know.

When your veterinarian releases your pet from the hospital, you’ll likely receive a long list of do’s and don’ts, potential problems to look for and supplies you might need. While all of this information can be a bit overwhelming, your veterinarian and members of his staff are there to help you make it through this sometimes-difficult time.

Immediately After Surgery

Exactly how long your pet will be in the hospital depends on what type of procedure he has undergone, but if you want to see your four-legged friend, ask your veterinarian for permission. Keep in mind that the period immediately following surgery is when most complications occur, which makes it especially important to follow your veterinarian’s recommendations for rehabilitation and recovery. In some cases, doing so can mean the difference between life and death for your pet.

Before You Leave

When your pet is ready to be discharged from the hospital, you’ll be given instructions for at-home care. Make sure that you understand what is expected of you, and if you have questions, ask if you can review them with a veterinary technician. Ask your veterinarian or technician to show you the best way to lift or support your pet when it is required.

If you don’t think you’ll be able to carry out a particular part of your pet’s at-home care, ask if your veterinarian can provide any outpatient support. You’ll likely be told when to return for a follow-up examination or have sutures removed; it’s a good idea to make the appointment at this time. Also smart: Ask about your veterinarian’s procedures for after-hours help in case you do encounter a problem.

We’re Home! Now What?

Your pet may still feel the effects of anesthesia several hours after the procedure, so he may be unsteady on his feet. If that’s the case, you may want to keep him in a quiet and contained place at first. And though your pet might want to return to his or her regular routine, you need to ensure that he gets adequate rest.

Pets recovering from surgery should only be allowed outdoors to relieve themselves, but be aware that some pets may need more frequent bathroom breaks than usual, especially if they were given fluids during surgery or hospitalization. When taking your pet outdoors, make sure that he’s urinating and defecating as expected, and keep him on a leash at all times.

If your pet is receiving medication, ensure that he receives the proper doses that your veterinarian prescribed. And since certain drugs—especially painkillers—can slow his reflexes, it’s smart to restrict your pet’s activity (keeping him from stairs and slippery floors, for example) to prevent injury.

Supervise your pet’s eating and drinking, following all instructions for special nutritional requirements. Until he’s back to normal, provide food and water in small amounts.

Sometimes, veterinarians recommend “crate rest”—keeping your pet in an appropriately sized crate to restrict activity. This can be difficult for both you and your pet if they aren’t already accustomed to being in a crate. But if your veterinarian has advised you to keep your pet in a crate, it’s vitally important to do so, even if your pet is unhappy or seems to be healing. To make this trying time easier for your pet, keep him occupied with plenty of toys and an occasional low-calorie treat. You may also want to turn on a radio or television for company, or pamper him with daily grooming, which can be a welcome distraction. Also smart: Keep your pet entertained by placing the crate in a high-traffic area where he can watch the household’s activity, unless he is easily agitated (if that’s the case, it may be a better idea to keep the crate in a quiet room).

If your cat has been confined to crate rest, a large dog crate with a small litter pan inside may provide adequate containment—just be sure to cover the slippery plastic floor with an inexpensive nonslip rug.

Monitoring Surgical Sites

Some swelling is normal immediately after surgery, but watch carefully for any signs of oozing, odors, heat, pain, excessive bruising, or redness. If something doesn’t look right, call your veterinarian immediately. And don’t allow your pet to scratch or chew at the sutures or bandage. If he does, an Elizabethan collar—also known as an “e” collar—may be necessary to prevent your pet from chewing the wound.

Recovery Times

Typically, full recovery from an extensive orthopedic surgery, such as total hip replacement, takes at least 2 to 3 months, though some dogs require 6 months of careful monitoring and rehabilitation before they reach optimal recovery. Less-invasive surgeries, such as neutering or ovariohysterectomy (spaying), may require only a matter of days or weeks for recovery.

Follow Up

It’s critical to keep all recommended follow-up appointments so that your veterinarian can monitor your pet’s progress. If sutures were used, your veterinarian may need to remove them. If a cast was placed, your veterinarian will want to check it periodically and eventually remove it. Radiographs (“x-rays”) or other tests may be scheduled to assess healing.

Your veterinarian may also prescribe physical therapy, including massage and hydrotherapy, which can be helpful to your pet’s recovery.

~ Source: Reviewed by a Veterinarian~

New U.S. Protections Could Crush ‘Canned’ Lion Hunting

The practice of so-called “canned” hunts, where hunters pay upwards of $20,000 to target African lions in huge, fenced-in areas, could be doomed thanks to the U.S. government’s move in December to protect the animals under the Endangered Species Act.

That’s because Americans make up a huge majority of the clientele participating in canned hunts—where lions are essentially bred for the purpose of hunting—according to the Humane Society of the United States.

In new data obtained from the Convention on International Trade on Endangered Species (CITES) Database, the Humane Society found that a total of 719 African lions were imported to the U.S. in 2014, 620 of which came from South Africa—the epicenter of captive lion hunts.

In total, 429 lions were killed in South Africa’s canned hunts in 2014, and 363 of those lions were hunted by Americans—about 85 percent of the total.

To read more on this story, click here: New U.S.Protections Could Crush ‘Canned’ Lion Hunting

Some Animals Are More Equal Than Others

It’s time to take a look at the line between “pet” and “animal.” When the ASPCA sends an agent to the home of a Brooklyn family to arrest one of its members for allegedly killing a hamster, something is wrong.

That “something” is this: we protect “companion animals” like hamsters while largely ignoring what amounts to the torture of chickens and cows and pigs. In short, if I keep a pig as a pet, I can’t kick it. If I keep a pig I intend to sell for food, I can pretty much torture it. State laws known as “Common Farming Exemptions” allow industry — rather than lawmakers — to make any practice legal as long as it’s common. “In other words,” as Jonathan Safran Foer, the author of “Eating Animals,” wrote me via e-mail, “the industry has the power to define cruelty. It’s every bit as crazy as giving burglars the power to define trespassing.”

Meanwhile, there are pet police. So when 19-year-old Monique Smith slammed her sibling’s hamster on the floor and killed it, as she may have done in a fit of rage last week, an ASPCA agent — there are 18 of them, busily responding to animal cruelty calls in the five boroughs and occasionally beyond — arrested her. (The charges were later dropped, though Ms. Smith spent a night in jail at Rikers Island.)

In light of the way most animals are treated in this country, I’m pretty sure that ASPCA agents don’t need to spend their time in Brooklyn defending rodents.

In fact, there’s no rationality to be found here. Just a few blocks from Ms. Smith’s home, along the M subway line, the city routinely is poisoning rodents as quickly and futilely as it possibly can, though rats can be pets also. But that’s hardly the point. This is: we “process” (that means kill) nearly 10 billion animals annually in this country, approximately one-sixth of the world’s total.

To read more on this story, click here: Some Animals Are More Equal Than Others

The Acceptance of Mini Pigs as Pets is the Result of Misleading Claims that Can Truly Hurt Innocent Pigs

The micro-mini pig craze has exploded over the past few years. There are YouTube pig celebrities. There are "trendsetters" like Victoria Beckham and Paris Hilton cooing over their tiny pigs. There was even a teacup pig appearance on How I Met Your Mother. But the acceptance of mini pigs as pets is the result of misleading claims (dating back to the 1980s) that can truly hurt innocent pigs.

Teacup pigs are really baby potbellied pigs

At first glance, it sounds purely adorable: a pig who will never weigh more than a human baby. But as the executive director of PIGS Animal Sanctuary Melissa Susko confirms, this isn't the case. "There really is no such thing as a teacup pig, micro-mini, Juliana, etc.," she tells The Dodo. "Miniature pigs are mini compared to a domestic farm pig that can reach 600-plus pounds. So-called teacups are actually potbellied pigs who are either underfed to stunt their growth or who are sold under false pretenses."

Potbellied pigs ( Sus scrofa domesticus) are wild boar cousins from Vietnam who are in fact miniature pigs when standing next to huge farm pigs (who can weigh more than 1,000 pounds) or even wild hogs (who can weight 450 to 700 pounds). However, potbellied pigs still grow to between 100 and 150 pounds on average — nowhere near small enough to fit into a teacup. In fact, the smallest size that is healthy for these little guys is around 60 pounds (though that could be underweight, depending on the pig).

They can breed when they are just 3 months old

To convince customers of their pig's minuscule size, breeders may invite them to look at the piggy parents. Don't be fooled, says Susko. Because these pigs "can breed when they are as young as 6 to 8 weeks old, the parents of a piglet may be piglets themselves." Therefore, she says, "their size is not an accurate measure of how large their offspring will be in adulthood. Potbellied pigs can grow until they are 5 years old and reach well over 100 pounds."

Keeping pigs that small is simply unhealthy

Some breeders inbreed their pigs to try to achieve a smaller size, but that produces a host of health issues resulting from reduced genetic diversity, such as squished snouts, which cause breathing problems later in life. And breeders often instruct buyers to feed their pig a diet that amounts to starvation.

Susko says her sanctuary takes in numerous pigs turned in by people who said they "were told by the breeder that the pig will only get big if you feed him too much. Many pigs come in malnourished and emaciated. Underfed pigs also suffer from weak immune systems, sensitive skin and hoof problems." Indeed, underfed pigs — like too-little Wilburt here — tend to come with a host of health problems caused by malnutrition. Wilburt was fed guinea pig food to keep him small, but after being surrendered to a shelter, this curious 2-year-old is on a more appropriate diet of fruits and vegetables.

And it makes them unhappy

Potbellied pigs need other piggy friends and lots of space to roam — otherwise they can become depressed or angry. Pigs love to root, dig, roll in mud and splash in water. Their intelligence makes them exceptionally curious animals who will probably get into some trouble when they're bored, just like a toddler, and they can get territorial and moody, too. Pigs simply being pigs is oftentimes enough of a reason for teacup pig owners to abandon their pigs or surrender them to sanctuaries like Best Friends Animal Society or Pig Placement Network.

The Dodo reached out to Janette Reever, the Humane Society's deputy manager of animal fighting response for the Animal Rescue Team, for comment on the pet pig craze. Between her former job as an animal control officer, her current position at the Humane Society and her active volunteer work at PIGS Sanctuary, Reever says she has "seen firsthand countless pigs that were surrendered to shelters, rescues, and dumped because the 'teacup' pig grew to 100-plus pounds." Reever shares her home with two such rescues from PIGS Sanctuary — Annabelle and Arnold (pictured below) — and she "can attest to how smart they are, how closely they bond to their families and the specialized care they require."

Keeping pigs is more expensive than you may think

Because customers expect these piglets to stay tiny, they can't possibly imagine the mountainous costs associated with keeping a fully grown potbellied pig. As Susko puts it, "Many people think they are buying a teacup Yorkie and end up with a Saint Bernard. Not many people can handle a 100-, 200- or even 300-pound pig in their house."

There's the initial price of the pig, which may be several thousand dollars, the proper food (no dog or cat kibble), the space needed, the vet bills (finding a good vet for these piggies can be almost impossible), sterilization costs and the expenses for a qualified pig-sitter if the humans go out of town and don't take their pal along.

They also may be illegal

No matter what teacup pig purchasers may think or how small their pig may be, in the eyes of the law, these little pigs are livestock — just like farm pigs or cows. Many local governments outside of farm country forbid the keeping of livestock, so it might be illegal to keep these pigs as pets, even if you do have the money and the ability to care for them.

Unfortunately, the prevalence of misinformation about the care of these complex creatures means that most teacup pigs live only about five years, even though "the average life expectancy for a potbellied pig is 12 to 18 years," according to Susko. "We've had some that barely made it past two years of life."

And their popularity doesn't seem to be waning anytime soon. "I have been at the sanctuary since 2002 (going on 13 years) and have worked with well over a thousand pigs during this time," Susko says. "We get an average of 30 requests a week to take in pigs that people have purchased under the assumption that they will be micro or teacup pigs. When the pigs start growing, they call us. We have 120 potbelly pigs here at PIGS and 85 percent of them have been pigs that people bought without doing their research and fell for the teacup pig myth."

Don't be "pignorant" — find more information about "teacup" pigs here. When you see photos or videos tagged "teacup" or "micro" pig, remember that many of these pigs have a hard time finding a forever home after they no longer fit into that teacup. "It is an unethical industry," cautions Reever, "and the victims are the pigs."

Instead of an actual pig, why not gift a pig sponsorship this holiday season? There are also plenty of opportunities to donate to shelters that provide the proper care for abandoned or surrendered pigs.

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