If your community gets consistently cold (below freezing)
in the winter or has extended periods of snow and ice on the ground, you may be
surprised to learn what a huge difference you can make by feeding wild birds
right outside your own door or window. A
large-scale winter storm, with deep snow or ice cover, cuts off many birds from
their natural food supplies and can actually cause them to starve by the
thousands and even millions. Backyard bird feeding can make a real contribution
to their survival and even thriving during the winter months. Here are ten pointers for a successful
winter bird feeding season:
1. Put out feeders with good size capacity:And/or use multiple feeders to provide ample
food especially during snow and ice storms.There are many stores in your area that sell excellent bird feeders
including bird-specific stores and most lawn and garden centers. You can also
visit the National Wildlife Federation’s online backyard store to purchase
feeders while also supporting the Federation’s conservation work:
2. Provide nutritious winter seed foods: For most birds theses
often include seed mixes of: black oil sunflower seed, hulled peanuts, niger
seed and white millet seed.Mixed seed
bags can be purchased at local bird and lawn and garden stores or you can go on
line and visit the Scott’s Songbird Selections website for a store locator or
to learn more about wild bird feeding:
3. Offer fatty food too:
Birds need to burn more calories in the winter just to stay warm. Suet is considered a high energy food because
it consists of fat that has 9 calories per gram compared to 4 calories per gram
for carbohydrates or protein. Peanut Butter is also popular with our flying
friends but is more expensive than suet. Suet feeders are a favorite of
woodpeckers and other insect-eating birds
4. Keep your feeders full: Winter birds need to stock up on
calories especially for those long, cold winter nights.
5. Be consistent and keep feeding through the winter: Birds
grow accustomed to your feeders especially in severe weather when the snacks
you offer may mean their very survival.
If you leave home for an extended period, try to have a neighbor or
friend keep the feeders going.
6. Remember water: Birds can become dehydrated in winter even
if surrounded by ice and snow. Putting
out a pan of water near the feeder on warmer days is a terrific idea.
7. Stamp down the snow below: Ground-feeding birds such as
dark-eyed juncos, doves and many sparrows will be able to gather up the seed
that drop from the feeders if they don’t have deep snow to try to manage.
8. Hang feeders in cat-safe locations: Place bird feeders in
locations that do not also offer hiding places for sneak-attacks by cats and
other predators. Think of placing the feeders ten to twelve feet from shrubs or
brush piles. This gives the birds some
time to react.
9. Remember feeder cleanliness: Your feeders can get a little
grimy. Because natural food sources are scarcer in the winter, more birds may
be attracted to backyard feeders and those feeders will need to be cleaned with
some hot water and dried a few times during the season.
10. Save some money and stock up on seed: Bird feeding veterans
say it is best to stock up on birdseed in the Fall when many lawn and garden
centers are discounting it to make way for winter merchandise. Stored properly,
(in cool dry places) seed can easily last for months, particularly seed mixes
and sunflower seeds.
The first days or winter are a great time to start feeding
birds. Once you have bird feeders, some
water sources, some shrubs and trees for habitat cover you are well on your way
to qualifying for certification as a backyard habitat with 135,000 other U.S. residents. Learn more about NWF’s Certified Wildlife
Habitat™ program and see if you might like to join up. The winter birds surely need you.
Cleaning your bird's cage can at first seem like a tedious
chore. With so many bars, cracks, and crevices to scrub, it can be hard for new
bird owners to figure out where to start.
Setting and adhering to a cleaning schedule for your bird's
cage is essential to keeping this job as easy to handle as possible. Breaking
the process down into simple tasks to be completed daily, weekly, and monthly
not only saves you time and energy, but ensures that your bird always has a
clean and comfortable cage to live in.
Daily Cleaning
Dirty cages can lead to a host of serious health problems
in birds. Certain cleaning must be done every day to minimize your pet's risk of
infection. Follow these simple steps daily to make sure that your bird's cage
stays in top condition.
Change the cage liner. In addition to being uncomfortable,
it is unhealthy for birds to walk around in discarded food and droppings.
Unchanged cage papers can also emit a very unpleasant stench. Avoid these
problems by making sure to replace the liner of your bird's cage every day.
Clean Food and Water Dishes. Remove your bird's food and
water bowls daily and wash them with a mild dish detergent. This will prohibit
the growth of bacteria that can potentially harm your pet. Make sure to rinse
and dry them thoroughly before placing them back in your bird's cage.
Wipe Down Surfaces. Using a damp rag or paper towel, spot
clean the surfaces of the cage, including the bars, perches, and any toys. To
clean stubborn, stuck on messes, use a bird-safe cage cleaner.
Weekly Cleaning
Decide on a certain day each week to complete weekly cage
cleaning duties. Keeping up with these tasks helps to reduce the chance of
germs and bacteria taking up residence with your bird.
1.Wash
the Cage's Tray. Bird cages have a tray at the bottom that the cage liners are
placed on. This tray should be removed at least once a week and scrubbed with a
damp rag and cage cleaner. Remember to make sure that the tray is dry before
putting the liners back in and replacing it.
2.Remove
and Scrub the Grate. Some bird cages have a grate at the bottom of the cage,
that hangs suspended over the tray so that the droppings fall through to the
bottom. This grate should be scrubbed weekly to remove any dried droppings that
may have collected on it. The easiest way to clean a grate is to place it in a
bathtub and use a scrub brush to remove the waste. As with all cage parts, make
sure that it is completely dry before returning it to the cage.
3.Clean
and Change the Perches. Perches can also accumulate dirt and waste, and are a
potential breeding ground for bacteria. They should, therefore, be soaked and
scrubbed once a week to remove any germs that may be hiding on them. Some
perches, especially the wooden ones, take quite a while to dry after they've
been cleaned, so it's a good idea to keep a few "back-up" perches on
hand. Put these in your bird's cage while the ones that you've cleaned are
drying.
4.Clean
and Rotate Toys. Much like human babies, birds use their mouths to explore and
play with their toys. Once a week, any toys that are in your pet's cage should
be removed, soaked, and scrubbed. As with the perches, it may be helpful to
have a variety of toys on hand for your bird. That way, you can rotate the toys
every week when you do your cleaning, effectively making sure that your bird
does not get bored with his playthings.
Monthly Cleaning
Once a month, you should do a thorough cleaning of the
whole cage. If it is not too big, the easiest way to do this is to remove the
perches, toys, dishes, grate, and tray and place the entire cage into the
bathtub. Those with larger cages often take them outside to a deck or patio,
using a water hose to spray the cage off. Do whatever works best for you, but
make sure to follow these important tips:
Use a Good Scrub Brush. Buy a
sturdy scrub brush with durable bristles to scrub the bars and base of the cage
with. Use a cage cleaner to help break down stuck on material that is hard to
get off.
Make Sure to Scrub the Cracks.
Bird cages, particularly at the base, often have many cracks and crevices that
provide an ideal place for germs to grow. Use the bristles of the scrub brush
to get down into any grooves in the bird cage, and don't forget to scrub the
corners where the bars are welded together.
Rinse and Dry Thoroughly.
Always remember to rinse every inch of the cage completely, to remove any
remnants of cleaners or detergents. Once the cage is clean, wipe it down with a
towel before placing your bird inside. Wet birds get chilled easily, so it is
important to make sure that the cage is completely dry.
Maintaining a clean environment for your pet takes only a
few minutes a day, but can possibly add years to your bird's life. Cleaning
your bird's cage may seem like a lot of work, but you will find that if you
stick to this simple schedule, you can complete the job with minimal time and
effort. Do your part to make sure that your pet stays happy and comfortable by
keeping his cage fresh, tidy, and germ-free.
Lovebirds are active, cheerful and beautifully decorative.
These petite 'pocket' parrots are very intriguing! Lovebirds come from the
drier regions of Africa. Because they evolved from a very harsh environment,
they are very suited to captivity. Not only do they have a good disposition,
these charming, brilliantly colored little pets are very hardy and easy to care
for. They can also provide you with a successful breeding experience.
In the wild lovebirds live in flocks. They will often bond
with a mate for life and show fierce loyalty and affection to their family. If
you can earn their affections as young birds, you will receive that same fierce
loyalty from your little friends. They are very social with both their keepers
and their mate.
The rewards of keeping a single lovebird can be
astonishing. The amazingly determined spirit of a pet lovebird can far surpass
other small parrots, both in their ability to learn tricks and to show
affection. But because of their strong devotion, a lovebird kept singly will
require vast amounts of time and affection in return in order to thrive.
Lovebirds also won't easily switch loyalties from one
companion to another, whether it is to another bird or to another human. On the
other hand, unless they are very attached to their keeper, lovebirds are not
going to learn a lot of tricks or necessarily want to have a lot of handling.
If you simply want to enjoy the antics and chatter of these
colorful little birds, get two to keep in an indoor cage. Or you can get more
to keep in an aviary. They are very flamboyant, and are wonderful birds to
observe and enjoy.
Distribution
Lovebirds belong to the genus Agapornis. There are nine
species of lovebirds and they are all native to Africa except one. The exception
is the Grey-headed Lovebird which comes from the island of Madagascar. Most
lovebirds live close to the equator where they inhabit dry savannah regions.
There is one exception, a forest dwelling lovebird, the Black-collared
Lovebird.
Description
The lovebird is a small stocky parrot mostly between
5.1-6.7 inches (13-17 cm). They have a large bill and a tail that is either
round or square. Their average life span is between 10-12 years with some
living even longer. The lovebird has been recorded at 17 years and several
people have reported their birds living even longer than that. We had one
person state that their lovebird lived for 25 years!
The different species of lovebird are identifiable by their
colors and markings. They vary greatly in their coloring, and each species can
be viewed for their unique combinations. Younger birds are duller in color and
they have black in their beaks. The young birds coloring intensifies as they
reach maturity. Regardless of the species, mature lovebirds are gorgeous
parrots.
Three of the nine lovebird species are most commonly
available lovebirds for pets. The other six are more rare, and in some cases,
absent at least in the United States. The three common species are the
Peach-faced Lovebirds, the Masked Lovebirds, and the Fischer's Lovebirds, and
all three make wonderful pets. There are a variety of color mutations in
lovebirds, developed from these three common species. This is especially true
for the Peach-faced Lovebird, which can be bred in hundreds of different
combinations of mutations. As a result, there are many new lovebird colors
available.
A wide variety of lovebirds can be found in the pet
industry and from breeders. Some lovebirds and lovebird mutations that are
commonly available include:
In the wild, lovebirds feed on seeds, berries, fruits,
grains, grasses, leaf buds, and agricultural crops of corn, maize and figs.
Their food and water dishes are best if earthenware or porcelain as they will
get gnawed if plastic.
Bird Food
Foods available for Lovebirds include formulated diets,
either pelleted or extruded, seed only diets, and small parrot mixes which
offer a mixture of both. There are pros and cons to feeding only a formulated
diet as well as feeding only a seed diet.
Formulated Diet
A formulated diet provides a good nutritional base so does
not require the addition of vitamins. However it does not contain the
phytonutrients (antioxidant pigments) that are found in vegetables, fruits,
grains, and seeds. Phytonutrients are believed to boost the immune system, help
a body to heal itself, and to prevent some diseases. Also, parrots can become
bored with formulated diet due to the lack of variety.
Seed Diet
A seed only diet offers much more variety but requires
additional vitamin and calcium supplements. Lovebirds need not only nutritional
requirements met but also variety for psychological enrichment.
A lovebirds's diet will consist of 1 1/2 to 2 ounces (45-60
grams) of feed daily for a single bird. A diet consisting of a small parrot mix
along with a variety of supplements and vitamins is generally regarded as
suitable. Also a formulated diet along with greens, fruits, and vegetable
supplements but without additional vitamins is also regarded as suitable, and
is a more current trend.
Supplements
Supplements include fresh vegetables, greens, tree branches
for the bark, some fruits, and millet spray. Some of the fruit supplements
include berries, apples, grapes, pears, bananas, and kiwi. Some of the greens
and vegetable supplements include spinach, endive, watercress, chickweed,
radish, parsley, dandelions, carrot tops, corn on the cob, peas, endive, field
lettuce, and various garden herbs.
Additional proteins can be offered such as nuts. Try some
unshelled peanuts as well as hazelnuts, walnuts, Brazil nuts, and chestnuts.
A cuttlebone, or gravel and oyster shell in a separate dish
can be offered to provide calcium. Do not feed avocado as it can be toxic to
birds!
Vitamins can be added to the food or drinking water.
Water
Lovebirds drink a lot of water, so will need fresh drinking
water every day.
Bird Baths
Most lovebirds love a bath either in a flat earthenware
dish or by spraying them with a light mist of lukewarm water. If you use a
bathing dish, you will see the birds perch on the edge and dip their heads and
upper bodies in the water and beating their wings. They prefer this kind of
bath to getting into the water.
Bird Grooming
Lovebirds generally maintain their nails and beaks on their
own through climbing and chewing. Another good use they make of their tree
branches.
You can find bird seed, bird cages, and everything you need
for your pet here: Bird Supplies
Housing
Lovebirds are very
active birds. When housing your lovebird, bird cages or an aviary best suited
to them must provide a lot of space.
Bird Cages: A
minimum of 32 x 20 x 20 (81 x 50 x 50 cm) per pair of birds is recommended with
about four perches, feed and water dishes and an area for a bath. When you use
a small cage, you must let your pet out daily to fly around.
If you are housing pairs of lovebirds here are a few
guidelines: Try to house only one species of lovebird as mixing species can
cause serious fights. House either one pair of lovebirds or three pairs, never
two pairs or there will be fighting. Each pair needs about 35 cubic feet of
space.
Bird Perch
Provide one or two perches about 3/4' in diameter and
dishes hanging from the side for feed, water, and grit. Try to place the
perches away from dishes so the food and water dish do not become soiled with
bird droppings. Do not use plastic
because your bird will chew and break the plastic and it can become hazardous.
Tree branches of a similar size make good perches and will help to wear the
claws down naturally.
Bird Hide / Nest Box
Lovebirds like special resting places. Nest boxes placed up
high, all at the same level and all of the same type work well and help prevent
fights.
Aviary
A roomy indoor aviary, a bird room, or an outdoor aviary
(depending on your area) are all good choices. The aviary needs plenty of light
and fresh air. The outdoor aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can be
heated and cooled where necessary. Flights are recommended to be a minimum of
6' x 6' x 3' (183 x 183 x 91 cm) with plenty of perches or branches at least 1
1/2" (15 cm) thick.
Maintenance
It is important
For the health of your lovebird, it is important to keep bird houses and
accessories clean and in good shape. Basic cage care includes daily cleaning of
the water and food dishes. Weekly you should clean and disinfect the cage. Wash
and completely dry the perches and toys whenever they become soiled. In the
aviary, sand floors should be renewed annually.
Social Behaviors
Lovebirds as pets, as well as in the wild, are very social
birds. Generally and in most situations, it is thought to be essential for
their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs, not singly. If
keeping a single lovebird, you must provide the necessary social interaction
that it is missing from another bird. These birds develop fierce loyalties to
their keeper or their mate.
Aside from their social nature toward you or their mate,
lovebirds can be extremely aggressive towards other birds. You must be certain
that all pairs get along together, and that they are true "pairs",
not mismatched. Bonded pairs constantly groom each other and will feed each
other from the crop during breeding season and all year round.
These little birds will chatter all day long. They will
hide in their nest box if they are startled by a sudden noise, if they spot a
potential predator, or if it gets cold and windy.
Handling/Training
Lovebird training is best accomplished with a young bird.
To have a tame lovebird, its also best to work with a single bird. Young birds
have an amazing ability to learn tricks and be affectionate. Adults on the
other hand, are very difficult to tame and generally won't learn a lot of tricks
or imitate behaviors. Hand-raised youngsters are easiest to work with. They are
already quite socialized and tame, but unfortunately they are not always
available.
Taming involves acceptance and trust between you and your
bird. It means spending a lot of time with your bird daily. Start with talking
softly and making slow movements. Once your bird is comfortable with you, then
you can begin hand-taming. Use a dowel and push it gently against the bird’s
chest while offering a treat to coax it up onto the dowel. This may take many
tries. Once it is comfortable with stepping up onto a dowel, substitute your
finger for the dowel.
Lovebirds are not considered one of the best talkers, and
only some may learn a few words.
Activities
Lovebirds awaken with the dawn, get a drink, eat, and then
immediately begin to chirp. They will generally quiet down by mid-morning and
resume their chirping in the late afternoon.
These birds are very active, flying and climbing about,
gnawing on wood or chew toys, and grooming themselves many times all day. They
love toys of all kinds such as seed bells, swings, ladders, mirrors, shiny
objects, and wooden gnaws. A lovebird outside of it's cage will not stay on
it's playpen, they like to explore. Be sure this room is safe with no open
doors or windows, no toxic plants, no open water containers, and no hot stove.
Breeding/Reproduction
One of the pleasures of lovebirds is that they are easy to
breed. For breeding lovebirds, each pair of birds will need 2 nest boxes for sleeping
and nesting. These boxes need to be of the same type and size, and placed at
the same height on the same wall.
Breeding Lovebirds
Lovebirds will breed willingly as single pairs and some
species of lovebirds can be bred in a colony setting. Especially suited to a
colony are the white eye-ring group of lovebirds.
Breeding Age for Lovebirds
Lovebirds need to be at least 10 months old, though 12 to
13 months is better. Also birds that are 5 to 6 years or older should be
retired from breeding.
Sexing Lovebirds
Some visual characteristics that may aid in determining sex
are that the female is heavier bodied than the male and will sit more broadly
with legs apart, while the males sit more upright. A female’s tail will appear
more square while a males will appear more rounded. When observing the nesting
behavior, the female will do most of the nest building work.
An anal inspection can be done but takes experience in
sexing these birds to make a fair determination. Basically there are two bones
called the ossa pubes on the ventral side of the pelvis and the female will be
spread wider apart than the male.
The sexing of lovebirds falls into three categories
Dimorphic Types
The first group are different in their outward appearance
and can be classified as dimorphic.
This first group consists of:
Abyssinian Lovebird Agapornis toranta
Madagascar Lovebird Agapornis cana
Red-faced Lovebird Agapornis pullaria
Intermediate Types
The second or intermediate group are harder to
differentiate by appearance.
This group consists of:
Peach-faced Lovebirds Agapornis reseicollis
Black-collared Lovebird Agapornis swinderniana
Monomorphic Types
In the third group, the white eye-ring group, there are no
definite differences that can be seen. The sexing of the white eye-ring group
must be determined by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, which can be done by
many veterinarians or by a DNA testing, usually a blood sample or a few plucked
feathers sent to be diagnosed in a lab.
If you are breeding lovebirds in a colony setting, it is
very important to provide many more nest boxes than their are pairs of birds to
minimize fighting. The nest boxes should all be the same and mounted at the
same height of the enclosure. Also, be diligent in watching for fighting as it
can lead to death.
A nest box for a lovebird is 8" x 8" x 8"
(20 x 20 x 20 cm) or 10" x 6" x 6" (25 x 15 x 15 cm).
Egg Laying and Hatchlings
The female will lay about 5 eggs, though the clutch could
be as few as 3 eggs or as many as 8 eggs. The incubation period is 22 - 25
days, with 75% to 80% of the eggs hatching. The hen will start to brood after
the second egg is hatched. Often the male will join the hen in the nest. The
chicks will begin to leave the nest in about 38 - 50 days and will be
independent about 2 weeks after leaving the nest.
Potential Problems
Lovebird ailments, signs of illness to be aware of, include
if a bird seems withdrawn, its feathers are ruffled and the plumage is dull, it
sits with its eyes closed, watery or dull eyes, runny nose, it sleeps a lot, it
looses interest in its environment, and it stays at its feed cup. The droppings
may change color and be loose (if healthy they are grayish white and not to
thin). A couple other lovebird ailments to watch for are a lot of tail bobbing,
dropping off its perch, odd breathing, sneezing, and excessive scratching.
Some of the common lovebird ailments, illnesses your
lovebirds could contract, are injuries from fighting, Psittacine Beak and Feather
Disease, Polyoma Virus Infection, yeast infections (Candidiasis), Avian Pox
Virus Infection, bacterial infections, internal parasites, mites, ticks, egg
binding, intestinal influenza, coccidiosis, respiratory ailments, and diarrhea.
An ailing parrot should be taken to a avian veterinarian for diagnosis and
treatment.
Availability
The most available types of lovebirds for sale are the
Peach-faced Lovebird, the Masked Lovebird, and the Fischer's Lovebirds. There
are many beautiful lovebird mutations developed from these three groups of
birds that are also readily available. Many other species of lovebird are
available but not be as readily found. Lovebirds are also fairly inexpensive
little parrots.