Bindi's story was one of the Most Incredible Story category finalists in the National Cat Awards sponsored by Verdo Cat Litter. Bindi had always been a laid-back, gentle and sweet-natured cat, so when she started acting strangely one day, owner Valerie Lubbock knew something was wrong. Asleep on Valerie's lap, little Bindi, who was adopted from Crawley, Reigate & District Cats Protection, reached up, pushed her paws into her owner's chest and stared at her directly in her face. It was so out of character it was the incentive Valerie needed to go for that check-up. Within three weeks, Valerie had been diagnosed with breast cancer and had undergone a life-saving mastectomy.
The best way to avoid litter box issues is to find the right cat litter box and cat litter that will keep your cat happy and comfortable. There are many types of cat litter from which to choose, including those made of clay, corn, coconut husks, wheat, wood, walnuts, recycled newspaper or silica gel crystals. Each variety has its own benefits, so you can choose one based on your preference and your cat’s preference. A finicky cat will quickly let you know if they do not like their litter; take note, as cats will quickly develop bad habits (ie. not using their litter box) if their demands are not answered. There are also many types of litter boxes, including open litter pans in a variety of shapes and sizes; covered litter boxes in a variety of shapes, sizes and designs; automatic and self-cleaning litter boxes; high tech litter systems; toilet training systems and decorative furniture options that hide the litter box. Your Litter Options The texture you select matters to your cat, as she will be stepping on it. Litter also comes in scented and unscented formulas, as well as varied degrees of absorbency and odor control. Litter products also offer different degrees of clumping, resulting in how scoop-friendly the product is to use. Odor elimination is extremely important to pet parents, and litter products vary in their ability to eliminate odors. Scented litters are designed to mask odors from the litter box. Some cats can be deterred by strong scents and may prefer unscented litters. There are many scent-free brands that rely on ingredients such as carbon and natural plant extracts that work to absorb odors from urine and feces to reduce litter box smells, keeping both you and your kitty happy. Some litters are also more earth-conscious, made from recycled or sustainable products and can be repurposed as mulch. Some are flushable. Ultimately, the right litter for your cat is not only one that she is happy to use but also one that will effectively deal with odor issues. Here are the main types of litter and their characteristics: Clay: This is the original cat litter and still the most popular type on the market. Clay clumps hard and quickly. Many brands rely on materials such as carbon and plant extracts to remove odors. Clay is not biodegradable. If anyone in your family has respiratory issues, this may not be the best option, as not all clay brands are dust-free. Corn: Litter made from corn contains natural clumping and odor-absorbing materials. It is dust-free, biodegradable and earth-conscious. It’s available in natural and scented formulas. Coconut husks: Litter made from coconut husks is dust-free, biodegradable, earth-conscious and made from a renewable resource. It clumps lightly, but is scoopable and can be recycled in garden compost with the clumps and fecal solids removed. Wheat: Wheat contains starch inside the kernels, which makes the product clump and exposes natural enzymes that neutralize odors. Wheat litter is dust-free, biodegradable, earth-conscious and made from a renewable resource. Wood: This type of litter comes in pellet form and is a natural pine wood by-product. The pine scent is a natural deodorizer. Pine litter doesn’t clump. Wood litter is dust-free, environmentally safe, biodegradable and can be used for landscape mulch and compost with the soiled product and fecal matter removed. Walnut-based: Made from walnut shells, this litter is absorbent, biodegradable, earth-conscious and made from a renewable resource. It’s available in quick-clumping and non-clumping formulas. Recycled newspaper: This litter is made from recycled newspapers and thus is eco-friendly. It is available in pellet form and absorbs urine. It does not clump. Works well with deodorizer additives. Silica-based gel crystals: Silica is a natural mineral that is highly absorbent and can be re-used by one cat over a period of one month. The crystals absorb all moisture and appear dry again. They’re also trackless and dust-free. Should you decide to switch to a new litter, the best way to transition is to do it slowly over a period of seven to 10 days by adding small amounts of the new litter to the old until you have transitioned over completely. This way, most cats will adapt to the new brand without incident. If your kitty is avoiding her litter box, try giving her a simultaneous selection of different litter types to choose from by putting down three or four boxes with different litters in each one and see if she prefers one over another. This could be a quick fix for a litter box problem. Note: If your cat starts to suddenly go to the bathroom outside of her litter box, your first call should always be to your veterinarian. Many medical conditions can cause a change in a cat’s litter box habits. Because felines are finicky and possessive when it comes to litter boxes, a good rule of thumb is to provide one box per cat in the household, plus one extra, if possible. Different Types of Litter Boxes There is also a huge selection of litter boxes to choose from and it’s important to choose one that your cat is comfortable using. Whether you have a large adult cat or a tiny kitten, your litter box can never be too big. The way to gauge the correct size is to ensure that your cat can turn round comfortably inside without touching the edges. This is extremely important for adult cats because some breeds such as Maine Coons are bigger than others. Rectangular open litter boxes are available in a variety of fun colors to match your home décor. Some styles have low entry points and high sides to contain litter inside the box when your cat digs and scratches. There are also designs that fit comfortably into a corner. Covered litter boxes also come in a variety of styles and colors. Many are manufactured from materials that contain antibacterial properties to further control odors. Others have special carbon filters. Check the actual size of the elimination area inside a closed box to ensure it’s large enough for a big cat to circle around. There is a growing selection of self-cleaning litter boxes that can be set to clean approximately 20 minutes after the cat has exited the box. These self-cleaning solutions rake the litter to remove the waste into a special cartridge that can be emptied on a weekly basis rather than daily. Timid cats may be scared by the noise of the cleaning mechanism even if they are in another part of the room when it starts raking. Consequently, such boxes are only ideal for very secure kitties. High tech litter systems flush waste material and wash re-useable litter granules, meaning that feline pet parents never have to scoop. Such systems have to be attached to the plumbing system in your home. Again, it’s important to ensure that it’s positioned in an area where your cat is comfortable using it, such as a family bathroom. Avoid placing litter boxes near noisy appliances such as a washing machine or dryer, which could spook your cat and cause her to avoid her litter box. Taking the time to select and maintain a litter box based on your needs and your cat’s preferences will go a long way toward avoiding negative litter box behaviors in the future and result in a happier, healthier life together.
Does your cat sometimes fling litter out of her box like party confetti? If so, there are usually some very simple reasons why.
Let’s consider normal feline elimination behavior. When cats eliminate in the litterbox, they typically follow a certain behavior pattern. First, they may inspect the litter material. Next, they may dig a shallow depression. Then, they eliminate. Afterward, some cats may try tocover their deposits. This is when they tend to get enthusiastic about the job and throw litter all around the box — and sometimes even outside the box.
If the sides of the litterbox are low, it is common sense that litter material may get “kicked” out of the container. The standard litterboxes we provide for our cats do not always take into account the full extent of a cat’s behavior when eliminating.
Think Outside the Box
Wild cats exhibit the same behaviors as pet cats, but they do not have to deal with the constraints of alitterbox. I used to study feral cat behavior and observed numerous cats as they went about their business eliminating on a dairy farm. On the farm, where the cats were exposed to many “litter” substrates, they tended to dig in the finer substrates, such as sand and dirt, but they did not do this in grass or gravel. They were also able to fully extend their legs to rake the desired substrate, which they are usually unable to do in commercial litterboxes. Cats tend to spend more time manipulating the substrate they prefer.
Size and Height Matters
If your cat always kicks litter out of his litterbox, consider getting one with higher sides. Or you can make your cat a larger litterbox by using a large plastic storage box with high sides (the ones I use are about 12 inches high) and cutting an opening in one side to allow easy access. This is also a good option for a cat who has joint problems or other mobility issues — just make sure there are no sharp cut edges that could cause injury.
Some cats may also need a transition period, so leave the old box next to the new for one to two weeks, until you see the cat using the new box more frequently. Then you can remove the old box. You should also try to pick a box that is at least one and a half times the length of your cat from the tip of her nose to the base of her tail. Most traditional litterboxes are much smaller, so it’s no wonder if your cat is tossing some litter over the side.
Bringing a cuddly, appealing bundle of purr home is exciting, whether the kitten is your first or an addition to your current pet family. Your kitten will be entirely reliant on you to ease his transition from mom cat's side or animal shelter to this strange new place. Keeping him safe and happy takes planning and patience for everyone in the household. The efforts will pay off, as your new little friend grows into a confident, affectionate kitty who knows there's no place like home. Here are some tips for making your new friend's arrival easier.
Kittens are sometimes adopted at six weeks of age, but 10 to 12 weeks is better. Those extra weeks spent with his mother and siblings help a kitten learn acceptable behavior, from getting along with siblings to getting used to human contact. A six- or seven-week-old kitten may be stressed and confused at being separated from his or her family too soon; your kitten may be fearful of people, and could try to hide or run away from interaction. If a kitten has been gently handled and has gotten used to humans, he will be friendlier and better adjusted. In choosing a kitten, look for one that is inquisitive, doesn't shy away from your touch, and is ready to play. Kittens are growth machines for their first year and need different nutrition than adult cats. Extra protein for muscle and tissue development, fat for fatty acids and plenty of calories are key to kittens' health. Specially formulated kitten foods fitting their nutritional requirements should be given until the kitten is a year old. Away from his littermates or mother, the kitten needs to feel secure as well as warm. Whether you provide a cardboard box lined with a blanket or a fancier bed from a pet supply store, keep your kitten's bed in a quiet place, away from household traffic.
Litter training is easy -- cats instinctively bury their waste -- but takes patience. Put the litter box in a corner or other secluded spot. After your kitten has awakened from a nap, or shortly after she's finished eating, place her in the box. If she doesn't dig or scratch, gently take one of her front paws and simulate digging with it. Praise her if she uses the box, but never punish her if he doesn't. Just place her in it at hourly intervals until she gets the idea. To discourage clawing furniture, provide a carpet-covered scratching post.
Although everyone will want to hold the kitten, limit handling for the first few days while your new pet adjusts. Set up his bed, litter box and food in a quiet room where he can be secured until he gets to know his new home. Introduce one family member at a time, allowing the kitten to come to you and learn your touch. Children under five should not interact with kittens; many shelters and rescue groups will not allow families with very young children to adopt kittens because children can be rough, sometimes tragically, with kittens. Older children can be shown how to hold a cat -- with one hand just behind the front legs, the other supporting his hindquarters. They should be taught never to grab a kitten's tail or ears, or pick it up by its scruff. Show children how to gently pet a cat's head and back. Remind them to always wash their hands after being around kitty. Always supervise children's interaction with kittens, especially if they have friends visiting.
Kittens can get tangled or choked by anything swinging or hanging. Therefore, keep your new pet safe by securely anchoring drape or blind cords out of reach. To prevent chewing on electric and phone cords, bundle them with a cord manager and fasten away from kittens' reach. Rubber bands, jewelry, Christmas decorations, balloons and other small items are dangerous to kittens that may swallow them. Remove poisonous plants, and roach or ant traps and make sure the toilet lid is down. Keep kitchen and bathroom cabinets closed so your kitten doesn't encounter bleach, detergent, dental floss and other household items when exploring. In the laundry area, keep washer and dryer doors closed: A kitten may climb into a warm dryer for a nap. Remember, if something would be harmful for a toddler, it's the same for your kitten.
After you've kitten-proofed, introduce your kitten to your home one room at a time. Place his open carrier in whichever room you are introducing him to so he has a retreat if he wants it, and let him walk around while you sit quietly. Talk to him softly as he explores. He may hide under a bed or scoot behind a refrigerator, so you need to be vigilant. If you don't want him in the habit of climbing on your bed, gently remove him and place him on the floor. Bring him back to his own space, and repeat this introduction process in each room of your home until he has explored everyplace.
Before bringing in a new kitten, be sure your resident pets have recently been checked by your vet, and are disease-free. When the kitten is in his or her secured room, your other cat will sniff around the doorway. Give your resident cat extra attention to ease his or her anxiety. Once the kitten feels comfortable, allow the two to meet briefly. Stay in the room while they sniff and explore each other. There may be some hissing and growling. If one cat shows real hostility, separate them and try again a few days later.
Never leave a dog alone with a new kitten. Dogs can become aggressive, or a kitten may claw at a dog's face. Make sure your dog is properly leashed as you introduce him or her to your kitten following the same procedure you would to introduce a cat to your kitten. This lets the animals learn each other's scent. The kitten should not be allowed to run away because the dog may think chasing it is a game. Reward both pets for calm behavior. Always supervise their interactions until the kitten is fully grown.
A kitten's high energy level makes her eager to play at any time. To keep her safe, choose toys carefully, just as you would for a child. Avoid those with buttons, bells or other small parts that can come off and be swallowed. Watch for sharp edges, and beware of string, yarn or ribbon, as these are dangerous if ingested. If a toy has any of these, always supervise the kitten when she plays with it. Small stuffed animals to attack and a ball too large to fit into her mouth will provide hours of kitten fun. You can hold a plastic fishing pole, anchored by a secure line to a fuzzy mouse or other small toy, in front of the kitten who will delight in chasing this prey.
Your vet should see your kitten within a day or two of his arrival. She'll check for ear mites and fleas, and examine a fecal sample, because most kittens have some form of worms. Many vets routinely deworm all kittens with an oral medication. At six to seven weeks, your kitten should receive a "three-way" vaccine that protects against the respiratory diseases FVR (feline viral rhinotracheitis) and FCV (feline calicivirus), as well as distemper (feline panleukopenia), with a booster shot given 12 to 14 weeks later. If your kitten is at least nine to 10 weeks old, he'll be tested for FeLV (feline leukemia) and FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus). He can get a rabies shot, usually required by law, at 12 weeks of age. Kittens can be spayed or neutered as early as eight weeks of age, but your vet can determine the best time for this surgery. Spaying protects your female kitten from the risk of mammary, uterine and ovarian cancers, and spares her the stresses of pregnancy. Neutering a male reduces his risk of prostate cancer, and he won't "spray" to mark his territory. Because the urine of intact males literally stinks, neutering your kitten will make the litter box cleanup less of a chore. Spaying or neutering also helps reduce the problem of cat overpopulation.
A kitten left home alone should be secured in one room with his bed, litter box, scratching post, food and water. If you'll be gone until evening, add a nightlight. Give him enough safe toys to keep him busy, such as a trackball toy. Place a radio just outside his door, turned to a classical music or country western station. Many pet sitters have found cats seem to prefer these two genres. Other cats like listening to talk shows, perhaps soothed by the human voice. If your kitten will always be alone during the day, spend extra time petting and playing with him when you return.
When you first bring your kitten home, he may miss his siblings and mother. He'll meow in confusion or wake up during the night. Ease his stress by picking him up, stroking him while speaking in a soothing tone. Wrapping a ticking clock in a towel and placing it near his bed to remind him of his mother's heartbeat. Kittens have so much energy, they need to stay active to be happy. If you bring home two kittens together rather than one, they'll focus their play-fighting, scratching and wrestling on each other, and are less likely to feel lonely. They are also a lot more fun to watch.
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Bindi's story was one of the Most Incredible Story category finalists in the National Cat Awards sponsored by Verdo Cat Litter.
