To read more on this story, click here: Frequently Asked Questions About the Legal Status of Ferrets FOLLOW US!
Saturday, March 7, 2015
Frequently Asked Questions About the Legal Status of Ferrets
To read more on this story, click here: Frequently Asked Questions About the Legal Status of Ferrets FOLLOW US!
Do You Know What The Best Pet Reptiles Are For Children?
Many people buying reptiles, especially kids, can get so caught up in the “coolness factor” of the animals that they surrender to impulse buying, which is when an animal is purchased without any real thought as to its suitability as a pet for that particular person — not just now but in the future, too.
Many reptiles can live a long time. Will your 12-year-old still want that tortoise when he or she (the kid, not the tortoise) is 20 years old? How about 50 years old? Tortoises are famous for being long-lived, but many herps can live longer than 10 years.
Cute baby reptiles can get big. Visit an animal rescue and ask how often they take in green iguanas, large constrictor snakes or African spurred tortoises. Additional reptiles, such as most monitors, tegus,red-eared sliders and others, may outgrow enclosures that were fine for them as babies but are no longer.
Will the animal get the proper care? Proper husbandry is a must for any animal whether it’s scaly, furry or feathery. Knowing how long animals will live and how big they get is important, but a herp’s specific care requirements should be researched, and determined realistic for a youngster to provide, before it is brought home.
The good news is not all reptiles are very demanding pets. This is one huge reason why some make great pets for children. Read on, and you’ll find there are seven other reasons why reptiles make great pets for young people.
1. Reptiles are “Low-Maintenance” Pets.
Pets such as dogs and cats, though beloved by millions, require a lot of attention. Reptiles don’t.
For one thing, pet reptiles don’t need to be fed every day. Every other day is fine, and some don’t even need to be fed that much. Although not recommended for children, huge pythons have been known to go a year without eating. I would never recommend that a pet snake be fed only once a year, but only feeding them a couple times a week is fine.
When discussing pets, the issues of hair and the maintenance that goes along with it often come up. Reptiles don't need to be groomed.
Another facet of a reptile’s low-maintenance reputation is in regard to the animal’s need for owner interaction. This is aside from what’s required for general health, such as feeding and cleaning. Reptiles need both, like any pet.
Reptiles don’t crave affection from their owners. Although many accept handling, most are simply tolerating it. Some may actually enjoy being handled, and many reptile owners say their pets love being held. The bottom line, though, is that reptiles are also content to be left alone.
2. Reptiles Don’t Require Much Space
You already know how large a reptile gets is an important nugget of knowledge to possess. Some can get very big. African spurred tortoise hatchlings, for instance, are the essence of cute when you see them marching around their enclosures like little tanks. But over the years those cute little tortoises turn into behemoths. Granted, the adults could still be considered cute, but I’m not sure how cute you will think they are if one has burrowed into your backyard and unearthed your entire sprinkler system.
The reptile species recommended for children remain a manageable size and will not require a room-sized enclosure. Most will do fine in a 20-gallon terrarium or enclosure of similar dimensions: approximately 3 feet long and 1½ feet wide. Some, such as a single crested or leopard gecko, or a kingsnake, could even be kept in a 10-gallon terrarium. Turtles and tortoises will need more space. The leopard tortoise, for instance, can grow to about 20 inches in length and weigh 30 pounds; it will eventually need a pen in which to roam.
Yet the space a reptile requires for exercise is meager compared to some pets. The space within their enclosures is all they require.
3. Reptiles are Easy to Feed
Insects and rodents are readily available. Plus, some reptiles from my list such as bearded dragons and tortoises eat fruits and veggies. There are commercial diets for reptiles, too.
If you keep one of the snakes on the list but don’t like the idea of feeding it live mice or rats, there is an alternative: frozen rodents. They are widely available. Just remember to thaw them before offering them to your snake, and don’t use the microwave, or things could get gross. You can use hot water to thaw them. You may have to jiggle them a bit using long forceps to get the snake to strike.
One argument for feeding frozen rodents rather than living ones is that live rodents can bite snakes or harbor parasites that may harm the pets. Such parasites die during the freezing process.
Many hobbyists prefer to feed live rodents to their snakes. Many find a snake’s feeding behavior interesting to watch. When feeding live rodents, though, never leave one in a snake enclosure unattended, especially overnight. A live mouse or rat could gnaw on your snake and cause it severe injury.
When it comes to lizards, turtles and tortoises, a variety of commercially prepared diets are available. These are manufactured with the animals’ nutrition requirements in mind. Although they could be considered complete diets, it’s a good idea to vary your pet’s menu. For example, owners of bearded dragons could offer crickets one day, a salad the next and then a commercial diet.
To make herp food healthier for your pets, you often want to add a calcium, vitamin and/or mineral supplement. Usually in powder form, these supplements can be applied to insects. Place bugs in a plastic bag with some of the supplement, inflate the bag with air, and shake it up and down until the insects are coated with the power. Then offer them to your lizard. Powder can also be sprinkled onto veggies and fruits.
4. Keeping Reptiles Provides a Lesson in Responsibility.
Being fairly “low-impact” animals, reptiles are better candidates to teach youngsters how to care for a pet than more high-maintenance animals. They are less likely to suffer the consequences of neglect as quickly as other pets.
No pet should suffer neglect, but children are known to occasionally forget to feed pets or clean their cages. Reptiles hold up to this sort of situation better than other pets. Of course, if the situation continues for too long, it’s not healthy for the reptile either. At that point the parent may have to step in, but the basic principle holds true: reptile care is not as much of a chore as caring for other types of pets.
If a feeding is missed or other care requirement temporarily neglected, parents can discuss with their children how important it is to care for the reptile properly and correct the behavior accordingly. In the meantime, the reptile likely is none the worse for wear (unless the neglect is allowed to go on for too long — and nobody should let that happen).
5. Reptiles Foster Interest in the Natural World.
Reptiles are more exotic than other pets, which is a large part of their appeal. This is also the reason many television nature shows on Animal Planet and Discovery Channel focus on reptiles. Nature shows are often children’s first exposure to reptiles and can provide the motivation for their wanting to own some.
6. Reptiles Don’t Pose Much Risk of Personal Injury.
Sure, a pet reptile can bite. However, a bite from any of the reptiles on my list would be pretty inconsequential.
Deep within the souls of some people there’s something that recoils at the thought of a snakebite. It’s true that some snakes can deliver an impressive bite. Reticulated pythons have large fangs, and the bite of a venomous snake, of course, should definitely be avoided. But these snakes are not for kids or beginners.
A bite from more kid-friendly snakes, such as corn snakes, ball pythons or California kingsnakes, are minor wounds. These snakebites typically consist of a lightning-quick jab followed by a pinprick-sized bead of blood (or two) at the bite site. No pain is typically involved. I’m sure some particularly enthusiastic biters could inflict pain, but kid-friendly snakes are not known to be in that league.
All animals can be unpredictable at times, but the chance of a Russian tortoise, leopard gecko or other animal on my recommended species list inflicting serious injury is pretty much zero.
7. Reptiles are Quiet.
Reptiles don’t make as much noise as other pets; they certainly don’t bark or yowl.
It’s true that some geckos may emit slight barking noises, and frogs can make a variety of sounds. But for the most part, reptiles are a quiet bunch. They aren’t likely to disturb housemates or neighbors.
Hamsters, rats and other rodents also can be quiet, but often they are nocturnal. If they’re kept in kids’ rooms, their nighttime activities and noises could distract children from falling to sleep.
8. Reptiles appeal to kids and many adults. It’s their exotic, some people consider it almost alien demeanor and appearance. They never cease to fascinate.
There are plenty of reasons for youngsters to keep reptiles, and there are plenty of reptiles that make great pets. So the next time kids ask for a boa constrictor, instead of flat-out saying, “No,” maybe parents could say, “How about a corn snake instead?”
And to any young people thinking about hitting up their parents for a pet reptile, remember this: Do your research first, and ask only for a pet you know you can care for properly. If you don’t do that, you and the reptile could end up having bad experiences. If you see a reptile you like, read about it, learn all you can, and then approach your parents. Tell them why you think that reptile is perfect for you, and perhaps they’ll agree.
12 suitable pet reptiles for kids:
- bearded dragon
- leopard gecko
- crested gecko
- corn snake
- ball python
- California kingsnake
- red-footed tortoise
- Russian tortoise
- leopard tortoise
- red-eared slider
- painted turtle
- common musk turtle
Captive Bred Is Always Best
Young hobbyists starting out in reptiles should be given the best chance of success, and captive-bred animals provide just that. Many species described in this article are widely bred in captivity, so buying a captive-bred pet should not be difficult. Captive-bred animals are already acclimated to captivity. They won’t stress out as much as a wild reptile that’s been captured and shipped. Many of these can become fine pets, but others harbor illnesses that might not be apparent at first. Such health issues are less likely in captive-bred reptiles.
Resist the Impulse
If you see a really cool reptile at a pet store, resist buying it unless you already know you can take care of it long term. If you are unfamiliar with the animal, go home and do some research first. Get the pet later. It’s better to do it this way than to buy the reptile first, take it home, and then find out it will eventually weigh 100 pounds. Impulse buying leads to trouble. Learn before you buy!
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Tips on What to Look for When Choosing a Pet Ferret
Once you've done all of your research and are prepared for ferret ownership, it's time to go and pick out your ferret! Whether you adopt a ferret from a shelter or purchase one from a pet store or a breeder, there are things you need to consider when making this big decision.
There are four main places where you can find ferrets:
Pet store
Ferret shelter
Private breeder
Classified ads in newspapers and online (such as www.petfinder.com)
Where you get your ferret from depends on what you are looking for in a ferret. If you are a first time ferret owner, you may want to consider adopting an older ferret from a shelter. Kits (baby ferrets) can be a real challenge for an owner not prepared for their energy and enthusiasm! Kits are very active and they need substantial training and socializing. Older ferrets typically have more training and they are calmer than younger ferrets.
Another benefit of adopting a ferret from a shelter is that you are more likely to end up with a ferret that fits well into your life and household. Shelter operators are much more familiar with the ferrets in their care than a pet store employee would be, so they can make a better match. This is because a shelter operator spends more time interacting with his or her ferrets, but also because a kit's personality and activity levels are going to change drastically in the first year of his life. Therefore, a pet store employee really can't know how your ferret is going to be in three months or even three weeks.
Picking a Healthy Ferret
When you choose your ferret, especially if you're purchasing a kit from a pet store, look for a ferret with the following signs of health:
- Glossy, soft coat
- Bright, clear eyes
- Clean ears
- Clean teeth
- Trimmed nails
- Healthy skin
- Active, curious attitude
- Alert to surroundings
Avoid ferrets that have obvious issues, such as runny ears or nose, or ferrets that are living in filthy cages. While the situations that these ferrets are living in can be heartbreaking, a dirty cage is a breeding ground for parasites, and you could end up bringing diseases home that could affect your other ferrets or pets if you try to save them. If you see bad conditions, it is better to notify the proper authorities that the animals in the store are being neglected than it is to bring them home.
Make a Decision Based on Personality
When choosing a ferret, don't choose based on coat color or gender. Coat colors change throughout a ferret's life, sometimes several times, so just because a ferret is one color as a kit doesn't mean that he will stay that color.
Gender is also not a factor unless your ferrets are not neutered or spayed, and most ferrets are. The only real difference between a male and a female is that the male is generally significantly larger than the female.
Instead of coat color or gender, make your final decision based on personality. Every ferret has his or her own distinct personality, behavior, and quirks. Find the ferret that fits with you.
Take Your Time
The ferret you choose will be with you for at least five years, and some ferrets live to be ten or twelve. When you make your choice, don't let a pushy sales associate or anyone else rush your decision. Which ferret you bring home is a very important decision, one that cannot be taken lightly. Take your time picking out your new companion. Find a ferret that you can bond with, and you two will have a great time together for years to come!
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State Representative Joe Wilkinson Names "The Adoptable Dog" As the Official State Dog of Georgia
"Georgia was founded by James Oglethorpe and became a place where people could go for a second chance at life," said Rep. Wilkinson. "So, it is fitting that we recognize the importance of giving homeless dogs a second chance at life in this state."
"Having something like this come before the state of Georgia will heighten awareness for shelters and for adoption being an option, "said Tara High, Vice President of Operations for the Atlanta Humane Society.
Rubye Reid with FixGeorgiaPets.org highlighted the importance of spaying and neutering pets to prevent pet overpopulation in Georgia shelters.
"Dogs live longer happier lives when they're spayed, and ensuring that adopted dogs are spayed or neutered helps reduce the number of pets in shelters," said Reid.
Ruthann Phillips, Director of Georgia English Bulldog Rescue, noted that the organization currently has nearly 40 foster bulldogs in private homes in Atlanta.
"Every dog and cat deserves a home, and every home needs a dog or cat," said Phillips.
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A Snowball Hits This Horse, But Wait And Watch Because It’s Not Over
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Beautiful Adoptable Birds at The Washington Humane Society - Come Meet, Gorka, Chipper, Houdini, and Green Bird
Bird is the word at our New York Avenue Adoption Center! Gorka, Chipper, Houdini, and Green Bird are chirping away hoping their new families hear their songs and take them home.
Our adoption centers are open today from noon to 7 p.m. and you can see our adoptable online at www.washhumane.org/adopt.
Animal ID: 23627936
Species: Bird
Breed: Parakeet (Other)/Parakeet (Other)
Age: 1 year 6 months 14 days
Sex: Male
Size:Small
Color:Blue/White
Declawed: No
Site: Washington Humane Society
Location: Adoptions Lobby
To learn more about Gorka, click HERE!
Animal ID: 25051141
Species: Bird
Breed: Parakeet (Other)/Parakeet (Other)
Age: 4 years 8 days
Sex: Male
Size: Small
Color: Blue/White
Declawed: No
Site: Washington Humane Society
Location: Adoptions Lobby
To learn more about Chipper, click HERE!
Animal ID: 25051161
Species: Bird
Breed: Parakeet (Other)/Parakeet (Other)
Age: 2 years 8 days
Sex: Male
Size: Small
Color: Yellow/Green
Declawed: No
Site: Washington Humane Society
Location: Adoptions Lobby
To learn more about Houdini, click HERE!
Animal ID: 25051170
Species: Bird
Breed: Parakeet (Other)/Parakeet (Other)
Age: 2 years 8 days
Sex: Male
Size: Small
Color: Green/Yellow
Declawed: No
Site: Washington Humane Society
Location: Adoptions Lobby
To learn more about Green Bird, click HERE!
Location:
Washington Humane Society
District of Columbia Animal Care and Control
(New York Avenue Adoption Center - WHS is contracted by the Department of Health to operate this facility)
1201 New York Avenue, NE
Washington, DC 20002
202-576-6664
Adoption Center Hours:
12:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m. daily
Closed for adoptions on Wednesdays
Website: Washington Humane Society
Stray animals are accepted 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Please share!
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What You Should Have in Your Pet's First-Aid Kit
Keep your pet's first-aid kit in your home and take it with you if you are traveling with your pet.
One way to start your kit is to buy a first-aid kit designed for people and add pet-specific items to it. You can also purchase a pet first-aid kit from a pet-supply store or catalog. But you can easily assemble your own kit by gathering the items on our lists below.
Pet-specific supplies
Pet first-aid book
Phone numbers: your veterinarian, the nearest emergency-veterinary clinic (along with directions!) and a poison-control center or hotline (such as the ASPCA poison-control center, which can be reached at 1-800-426-4435)
Paperwork for your pet (in a waterproof container or bag): proof of rabies-vaccination status, copies of other important medical records and a current photo of your pet (in case he gets lost)
Nylon leash
Self-cling bandage (bandage that stretches and sticks to itself but not to fur—available at pet stores and from pet-supply catalogs)
Muzzle or strips of cloth to prevent biting (don't use this if your pet is vomiting, choking, coughing or otherwise having difficulty breathing)
Basic first-aid supplies
Absorbent gauze pads
Adhesive tape
Antiseptic wipes, lotion, powder or spray
Blanket (a foil emergency blanket)
Cotton balls or swabs
Gauze rolls
Hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting—do this only when directed by a veterinarian or a poison-control expert)
Ice pack
Non-latex disposable gloves
Petroleum jelly (to lubricate the thermometer)
Rectal thermometer (your pet's temperature should not rise above 103°F or fall below 100°F)
Scissors (with blunt ends)
Sterile non-stick gauze pads for bandages
Sterile saline solution (sold at pharmacies)
Tweezers
A pillowcase to confine your cat for treatment
A pet carrier
Other useful items
Diphenhydramine (Benadryl®), if approved by a veterinarian for allergic reactions. A veterinarian must tell you the correct dosage for your pet's size.
Ear-cleaning solution
Expired credit card or sample credit card (from direct-mail credit-card offers) to scrape away insect stingers
Glucose paste or corn syrup (for diabetic dogs or those with low blood sugar)
Nail clippers
Non-prescription antibiotic ointment
Penlight or flashlight
Plastic eyedropper or syringe
Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) to clean the thermometer
Splints and tongue depressors
Styptic powder or pencil (sold at veterinary hospitals, pet-supply stores, and your local pharmacy)
Temporary identification tag (to put your local contact information on your pet's collar when you travel)
Towels
Needle-nosed pliers
Common-sense advice
In addition to the items listed above, include anything your veterinarian has recommended specifically for your pet.
Check the supplies in your pet's first-aid kit occasionally and replace any items that have expired.
For your family's safety, keep all medical supplies and medications out of the reach of children and pets.
Washington, DC - Got Cabin Fever? Come Out to The MPD Second District Police Station - Washington Humane Society's Adoption Fair - Today, March 7th, From 12:00 p.m. - 2:00 p.m.
Come out to the Washington Metropolitan Police Dept. Second District Police Station (3320 Idaho Ave, NW) adoption fair TODAY from noon to 2 p.m.! There will be plenty of adoptables, fun demos, and giveaways.
What: Adoption Fair
Time: 12:00 Noon - 2:00 p.m.
Location:
Washington Metropolitan Police Dept. Second District Police Station
3320 Idaho Ave, NW
Washington, DC
See all of our scheduled adoption events at www.washhumane.org/adoptionevents.
My beautiful model is Madden. She may/may not be at the event today. However, she is available for adoption.
Animal ID: 24943032
Species: Dog
Breed:Terrier, American Staffordshire/Mix
Age: 2 years 25 days
Sex: Female
Size: Medium
Color: White/Brown
Spayed/Neutered
Declawed: No
Site: Washington Humane Society
Location: Adoptions Kennel
If you are interested in adopting Madden, or any other animals available contact:
Hours and Locations
Georgia Avenue Adoption Center
7319 Georgia Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20012
202-723-5730
Adoption Center Hours:
12:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m. daily
Closed for adoptions on Wednesdays
Click for holiday hours »
-----------------------------------
District of Columbia Animal Care and Control
(New York Avenue Adoption Center - WHS is contracted by the Department of Health to operate this facility)
1201 New York Avenue, NE
Washington, DC 20002
202-576-6664
Adoption Center Hours:
12:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m. daily
Closed for adoptions on Wednesdays
Click for holiday hours »
To report animal cruelty/ neglect, call 202-723-5730
Cruelty reports are accepted 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Stray animals are accepted 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Website: Washington Humane Society
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