One complaint of new or non-ferret owners is ferret smell. Remember that ALL animals, even humans, have their own unique smell. Mammals have musk glands that produce scented secretions which allow animals to identify and communicate with each other. Humans are used to the smells of some other animals, such as people, cats, and dogs; but to the uninitiated nose, natural ferret aroma may be an unusual surprise. This article will focus on two parts of controlling ferret odors. First, we will examine how to manage odors from ferrets themselves. Next, we will look at keeping the environment around the ferret clean. Eau De Ferret Ferrets are born with anal scent sacs. They also have musk glands concentrated around their face and lightly spread throughout the rest of the body. The anal scent sacs do not contribute significantly to the smell of the ferret. The natural ferret odor comes from the other musk glands in the skin. Smelling a ferret face will give you the best idea of what the natural ferret aroma is. Some people love the natural ferret smell, describing it as a sweet musk, curry, or a corn-based smell (tortillas, corn chips, or popcorn). Other people dislike ferret aroma at first, describing it as skunky or otherwise unpleasant. As with any animal, it may take people awhile to get used to new smells. Note that each ferret will have an "individual" smell unique to that animal, and that smell varies by the age and health status of the ferret. Fixing Your Ferret The strongest contributor to ferret odor is not the scent sacs or glands, but the hormones. A whole (unfixed) ferret will have a much stronger odor than spayed or neutered ferrets. When whole males (hobs) come into breeding season, they can be positively stinky. Not only do they produce more musk during this time, but they will also groom themselves with urine to make them smell more "attractive" to ferret females. The best way to reduce odor is to spay or neuter your ferret. "Altering" your ferret will take care of 90% of ferret odor. Most pet store ferrets are already fixed because major pet store suppliers routinely spay and neuter ferrets at six weeks before they are shipped to the pet store. You may receive a certificate from the pet store indicating your ferret is fixed. However, with mass-production surgeries at a young age, it is possible to "miss" a few things. If your "fixed" ferret has an unusually strong odor, particularly at sexual maturity (around six months of age), the neuter or spay may be incomplete. Male ferrets may have retained testicles that should be surgically removed. Female ferrets may still have ovaries or other hormone-producing tissue. Contact an experienced ferret veterinarian to investigate this possibility. Ultrasound may be able to detect an incomplete fix. If you own a whole ferret, most ferret experts recommend spaying or neutering around five to seven months of age. Ferrets can be fixed at any time after this as well; there is no problem with neutering or spaying an older ferret. However, it takes about 30 days for the hormones (and the smell) to calm down after the ferret has been altered, so you must be patient. To Descent or Not To Descent? In the United States, most pet-store ferrets are routinely descented at the same time they are altered. In many European countries, descenting is illegal and is considered mutilation. If your ferret is already descented, that is fine. Deborah Kemmerer, DVM points out that a descented ferret will not be at risk for later anal sac infections or even cancerous tumors. On the other hand, Susan Brown, DVM warns that there is the danger in kits of rectal prolapse due to damage to the sphincter muscles around the anus when the anal glands are removed. Mike Dutton, DVM also points out that the descenting surgery is delicate, and it is common for some anal sac tissue to be left behind if ferrets are descented at an early age. Just because your buy a ferret kit that is supposed to be descented does not mean you will get one. Although anal sacs do not regrow, the leftover tissue will start producing odors. If this is the case, you must have your ferret re-descented. The leftover tissue can cause serious infections if left intact. If your ferret has not been descented, you will most likely have no need to do so. Descenting a ferret has no significant impact on overall body odor. A ferret with intact anal sacs does, however, retain the ability to "poof" or "blow bombs" which means releasing some musk from these anal sacs. Ferrets cannot spray like a skunk, and unlike a skunk musk, ferret poofs dissipate within a few minutes. This natural defense mechanism will assert itself if your ferret is hurt or suddenly frightened. Additionally, ill ferrets with intact anal sacs will smell worse because they may not groom themselves, so the odor is an excellent indicator of a health problem. Undescented ferret kits may poof while at play or when waking up. Some "leak" while asleep and dreaming. Others may seem to poof for no reason at all. Generally, this behavior subsides by one year of age. There are two reasons that you may elect to have a ferret descented. The first is medical, and the second is behavioral. Undescented ferrets may have a problem with impacted anal glands or recurring anal gland infections. In these cases, the anal sacs must be removed. There are also some ferrets who blow bombs constantly or seem to have no control over their anal sacs, even when they are mature and fixed. If your ferret is unbearable to live with because of this behavior, you may need to descent your ferret. According to Karen Purcell, DVM, the risks of descenting surgery include death from anesthesia reaction (rare); incontinence, either temporary or permanent, from the procedure (possible); and small retained pieces of the glands that can lead to infection/abscess/problems down the line (common). It is extremely important that your veterinarian is experienced with this procedure, and has had a good success rate. I know of ferrets who have had multiple surgeries due to poor descenting technique the first few times. Ferret Bathing Many new ferret owners bathe their ferrets as often as possible in an effort to reduce odor. Unfortunately, if you bathe your ferret too frequently, it will actually smell worse. Bathing strips the ferret’s skin and fur of essential oils, and "dries the ferret out." Dry skin is itchy skin, which is uncomfortable for your ferret. Additionally, skin that cracks from dryness allows infections to enter the body. Dry fur becomes brittle, dull, and porous. All this dryness causes the ferret to overcompensate by producing extra musky oils that are absorbed and stored by the porous fur, which only results in a smellier ferret. Bathing your ferret as often as every two weeks can cause skin and odor problems. Many experienced ferret owners advocate bathing only when necessary (such as when your ferret digs up a plant or plays in fireplace ashes), or during coat changes (twice a year). Others bathe their ferrets every two or three months. Use shampoos that are designed to be safe on ferrets or kittens. Do not use human shampoos or dishsoaps; the ph-balance is incorrect for ferrets. Shampoos with added scents should also be avoided because these perfumes may cause allergic reactions or respiratory upsets in your ferret. Make sure you rinse your ferret thoroughly (or twice!) so there is no evidence of soap left. You can use a conditioner (again, designed for ferrets or kittens), but make sure it is also completely rinsed out. Do not use leave-in conditioners on a ferret. A few drops of baby oil in a sinkful of water can be used as a final rinse. Many ferret owners advocate putting a teaspoonful of apple-cider vinegar (NOT white vinegar) in a sinkful of rinse water. This helps restore the natural ph-balance of the skin and leaves a clean scent. Smelly Ears A common contributor to strong ferret odors is dirty ears. Ferret ears produce a significant amount of wax, which can be odor producing. You should clean your ferret’s ears every few weeks. If your ferret’s ears have a particularly strong odor, and the wax is almost black, your ferret may have earmites. To clean your ferret’s ears, moisten a cotton swab with an ear-cleaning solution (such as Oti-Clens) or miticide (such as Nolvamite) designed for kittens or rabbits. Gently wipe the swab through the crevices of the outer ear. Ferret ears have many folds and pockets in their outer ear, and it may take several swabs to remove all the debris. Only clean the part of the ear you can see! Do not push the cotton swab into the ear canal, even if you see wax in the canal. Ferrets generally dislike this procedure, and they may need a distraction of a ferret treat, or require a second person to hold the ferret. Bad Breath If your ferret has bad breath that seems unrelated to diet, your ferret could have dental problems. Ferret teeth should be brushed regularly with a special pet toothbrush and pet toothpaste. If this is not done, tartar can quickly build up. Tartar by itself can be smelly, but long-term tartar buildups can cause serious gum and tooth infections. Infections and abcesses cause bad breath, as well as some kidney diseases. Your ferret veterinarian can diagnose kidney problems, infections, or dental problems. Odor-control Products for Your Ferret Never spray your ferret directly with human perfume, cologne, or air fresheners in attempt to mask odors. These products can damage skin and fur, cause allergic reactions, exacerbate respiratory problems, and damage mucous membranes in the eyes, nose, and mouth. There are many spray products marketed specifically for ferrets or other pets. These are not necessarily a good solution, especially if alcohol-based. Look for products that neutralize odors, not cover them, such as Ferret Kleen. The point is not to mask odors with a stronger, alternative scent, but to reduce these odors by attacking the smells themselves. Some people sprinkle a little baby powder on their ferret’s backs and brush it into their fur. This solution should not be used regularly, because baby powder dries out the skin and causes respiratory problems. The best ways to control odors is to fix your ferret, be sure it is in good health and properly groomed, and keep the ferret’s environment clean. Let us turn now to aspects of the ferret environment that can be managed to control ferret smell. Cages Cages made out of wood will absorb ferret odors, both from body oils and urine, and the smell cannot be removed. Be sure your cage is made out of washable materials, such as plastic or coated wire. Non-coated wire may rust, and the rust will also trap odors. Items in the cage should also be washable or disposable. For example, if your ferret sleeps in a cardboard box, replace it with a new one every month. If there are plastic playtubes or balls in the cage, run them through the dishwasher. Line cage floors with linoleum that can be wiped clean, or put washable bath mats on the floor. Carpet is not such a good alternative, as it will quickly absorb ferret smells and is difficult to clean. Note that many cleaners such as Lysol, Fantastic, and Pine Sol are poisonous to ferrets. Avoid these, as many ferrets find the smell of soaps and cleaners attractive and will lick the residue. Even small amounts can be fatal. A weak bleach solution (2%) is the best cleaner and deodorizer for a ferret cage. Diet Animal waste causes odors. You can control the both the strength of the smell and the amount of the waste with a proper diet. Ferrets fed a poor-quality diet will let you know, both in their general health, and also in their eliminations. Preservatives, artificial colors and flavors, and low-quality fats (such as beef tallow) will produce extra-stinky eliminations. Foods high in vegetable fiber, cereal grains, water, and other fillers will result in unnecessarily large stool volumes, as the ferret has to eat much more food to get adequate nutrition. Ferrets should eat a dry food that is low in fiber and high in fats and meat-based protein. Look for a food that is a minimum of 32% protein and 18% fat, and a maximum of 3% fiber. The first ingredient should be some sort of meat (usually poultry), and the other ingredients should not have too many grain products. Avoid dyes and preservatives as well. Do not feed your ferret canned food (unless they are ill), or dog food of any sort. Litterboxes Keeping the litterbox clean will significantly reduce odors. Clean the solid waste from a litterbox at least twice a day -- morning and evening. Completely change out all litter at least once per week. These guidelines apply to one or two ferrets using one litterbox in a cage. For more ferrets, more frequent cleanings will be necessary to keep down odors. Litter Different kinds of litter perform differently at absorbing moisture and controlling odors. Never use cedar chips or shavings in the litterbox (or anywhere else in the cage). Cedar has strong oils that cause respiratory problems in ferrets. In fact, most wood shavings and chips carry aromatic oils that are problematic for ferrets. In any case, shavings do not make the best litter because they do not do a very good job of absorbing either moisture or odors compared to other available litters. Most ferret owners recommend some sort of pelleted litter. Alfalfa pellets (rabbit food) is highly absorbent and inexpensive. A safe wood-based alternative is wood pellets. These are compressed pellets that have had the dangerous aromatic oils removed. These wood pellets absorb much liquid and help control odors. Products include Pine Fresh, Feline Pine, and All Pet Pine. My personal favorite is Gentle Touch, which is a compressed aspenwood pellet. Aspen is the safest wood for ferrets, and these pellets do a superior job of controlling odors. A less expensive alternative is Stove Chow, available in hardware stores that supply wood stoves. Other pellets that can be used as litter are made out of recycled newspaper. Yesterday’s News and Nature’s Fresh do a good job of absorbing moisture. Newspaper pellets may not do as good a job of controlling odors, but they are often less expensive than wood pellets and are more economical for frequent litterbox changes. Another plus is that these pellets are often flushable. Check less expensive brands of recycled pelleted newspaper carefully; some may have bits of plastic and rubber mixed in, which could cause intestinal blockages. One other type of litter that could be problematic for some ferrets is corn cob pellets. These inexpensive ground corn cobs do an adequate job of controlling odors, but have caused serious intestinal blockages in ferrets that accidentally ate the pieces. Oat hulls are another inexpensive source of litter, but be careful of dust levels, especially for litter-burrowing ferrets. A brand new alternative on the market is Citra-Fresh litter, an all-natural citrus litter derived from orange peels. The litter does a great job of absorbing both moisture and odors. Traditional clay litters can also be used for ferrets, but also have drawbacks, such as being quite dusty. The clay litters that promise additional odor control are often heavily perfumed and cause respiratory problems for ferrets. Never use a clumping litter. Although clumping litters may allow you to clean litterboxes more easily and completely, thus reducing smells, these litters can be fatal to ferrets. Ferrets can either get intestinal blockages, urinary tract infections, or fatal lung conditions. Remember that these particles expand under damp conditions, so if a ferret breathes in some clumping litter particles, the results can be disastrous. Laundry Time One of the most effective ways to keep your ferret smelling fresh is to keep the ferret’s bedding clean. Frequent laundering of hammocks, sleep sacks, snuggle tubes, cage mats, or rugs will do a great job of keeping odors down. Don’t be tempted to buy a nifty ferret bed or tent unless you can wash it. Your ferret will appreciate freshly laundered items. However, don’t use strongly perfumed detergents or fabric softeners, which may cause allergic skin reactions or respiratory problems. Soaps that are free of dyes and perfumes are preferable for ferret laundry. The goal is to have ferret bedding that does not smell at all, instead of ferret bedding that smells like soap or special scents. Do your ferret laundry at least once a week, depending on the number of ferrets you have concentrated on the bedding. Air Fresheners, Filters, and Cleaners In general, air fresheners should not be used around ferrets. Many ferrets are allergic to spray propellants and heavy perfumes. Stick-on and plug-in deodorizers can be fatal to your ferret if ingested. Scented candles may be a good alternative when company is about to arrive. Keep candle flames away from ferrets! There are some odor neutralizing fluids, such as Odo-Ban, that can be effective in neutralizing odors on floors or carpets. Avoid using carpet powders, as these cause lung diseases and footpad rashes. Although air filters can help reduce allergies in both humans and ferrets (especially HEPA-filters), they are not particularly effective against odors. To neutralize odors, ionizers can be effective. Although expensive, the unit I have seen most often in ferret shelters and multiple-ferret households with many ferrets is the Alpine XL-15S ( This unit effectively reduces odors by sensing levels and emitting ozonated ions by radio wave.) Conclusion A happy owner results in a happy ferret. Keep those odors down by spaying or neutering your ferrets, cleaning their litterboxes, and doing their laundry. You probably do not need to descent your ferret. A proper diet, clean ears and teeth, good health, and an occasional bath can also help keep your ferret and your home smelling fresh.
White sharks are becoming increasingly popular off the Cape Cod, with nine confirmed great white shark sightings in the past two days, according to the Atlantic White Shark Conservancy. What's even more rare is a white shark breaching or jumping above the surface, like we see in the video of Dr. Greg Skomal's close encounter. Skomal is a well-known shark expert who with other researchers from The Atlantic White Shark Conservancy, was on a trip to tag the great whites on Monday when the shark took them by surprise in the waters off Wellfleet. The great white shark leaped right out of the water with its jaws wide open, coming inches from Skomal's feet. The conservancy says it is incredibly rare to see sharks breach like that because it requires so much energy. As sharks continue to pop up in the waters off the Cape, Skomal tagged his eighth shark of the year about a quarter mile off Monomoy Island. Researchers say the video is an important reminder to stay vigilant in the waters.
Rachael Ray's dog food brand, Nutrish, is reportedly being sued by a man alleging that the products contain the “potentially harmful” herbicide glyphosate, and are thus not "natural" as advertised, multiple outlets say. E! News reports that Markeith Parks of New York filed the $5 million class-action suit on Wednesday against Ainsworth Pet Nutrition and its line of Superior Premium Food for Dogs. Per the outlet, Parks claims in the documents that while Ray's Nutrish "aggressively advertises" and promotes the products as "natural," the "claims are false, deceptive, and misleading." "Instead, the products contain the unnatural chemical glyphosate, a potent biocide and endocrine disruptor, with detrimental health effects that are still becoming known," the documents also claim, according to E! News. The legal documents reportedly go on to say that "tests conducted by an independent laboratory revealed that glyphosate is present in the products. "The exact source of glyphosate in thepProducts is known only to Rachael Ray Nutrish and its suppliers," the documents continue. "However, crops such as peas, soy, corn, beets and alfalfa are sprayed with the chemical in order to dry them and produce an earlier, more uniform harvest — a practice with no health benefits, meant only to increase yield." In addition, the documents are said to contend that "by deceiving consumers about the nature, quality, and/or ingredients of the products, Rachael Ray Nutrish is able to sell a greater volume of the products, to charge higher prices for the products, and to take away market share from competing products, thereby increasing its own sales and profits." Bobby Modi, vice president, pet food and pet snacks for J.M. Smucker Co., which bought Ainsworth Pet Nutrition earlier this year, told Fox News in a statement, “We are in the process of reviewing the details of the claim but strongly stand behind the quality of our products, ingredients and sourcing practices. "As animal lovers and humans, it goes without saying that we do not add pesticides to our products as an ingredient. We plan to aggressively fight these claims. Pet parents with questions about our pet food recipes or treats are encouraged to contact us directly by calling 1-800-323-7738 or via nutrish.com.” A rep for Ray said: "Rachael herself has always championed the great lengths Ainsworth Pet Nutrition and now the J.M. Smucker Co. take to create and provide the highest quality and safest pet food products on the market. This is why she does, and will continue to, feed Nutrish to her own dog, Isaboo, and her extended pet family." According to People magazine, Parks is seeking “relief including actual damages, interest, costs, reasonable attorneys’ fees,” and an injunction to stop Nutrish’s marketing and sale of the products, along with corrective advertising. Per the outlet, Ray, 49, started the Nutrish pet food line back in 2008, and continues to donate a portion of proceeds from each sale to the Rachael Ray Foundation, which helps pets in need through Rachael's Rescue.
Ferrets are playful, active, curious and loving. They make wonderful pets, but before you fall in love with one at a pet store or rush off to get one after talking to a delighted ferret owner, there are a few things that you must consider. Time Ferrets make excellent pets for people who have the time for them, and who bond well with animals. Ferrets are naturally quiet, friendly, inquisitive, intelligent, and companionable. At certain points in the day, they are also exceedingly active and capable of getting themselves into trouble unless they are supervised. Their intelligence makes them interesting companions, and they are able to amuse themselves when you are not around. But they do require attention and interaction with their owners; their mental and physical health depends on it. Legalities City, county, state, or military regulations can all dictate whether or not it is legal for you to own, breed, or sell a ferret where you live. The regulations can be quite involved. California, for example, allows only neutered males to be kept; and in Carson City, Nevada, it is illegal to own a ferret if you have a small child in your household. To determine the regulations in your area, check with your local Wildlife or Fish and Game department, with the Humane Society, or with your local veterinarian. These organizations should also be able to advise you on license and permit requirements. Depending on where you live, you may need a license or permit for your ferret. The costs for this can range from free to $15 or more. Costs The purchase price of a ferret can vary widely, ranging from $65 to more than $250. But the cost of buying the animal is only part of your initial cost. In addition to the purchase price, you can expect to pay another $150 to $350 for vaccinations (including rabies), veterinary examinations, and basic supplies. You will also need to budget for spaying or neutering your new pet, so check with your veterinarian for costs before making your purchase decision. You may wish to consider purchasing an older, already altered animal in lieu of a young kit. Once you bring your new ferret home, you will need to budget for renewals of vaccinations, routine veterinary care, and applicable licenses. Your ferret will, of course, need food, plus you will need to regularly buy litter, deodorizing cleaners, over-the-counter medicines including hairball remedies, and vitamin supplements, shampoos, collars and leads, etc. Compatibility Many prospective ferret owners are naturally concerned about how well a ferret would get along with their children or other pets. A ferret is a demanding pet for a child, requiring careful adult supervision and the maturity of the child. The child must be able to recognize that a ferret behaves differently from a dog, cat, or other pet. The child must also be old enough to handle the responsibility of caring for the ferret. Ferrets are not recommended for a household with children younger than 6 or 7 years, and especially close supervision would be required around infants or babies. Because they are natural hunters, ferrets usually can't be trained to get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents, or lizards. If you have these animals in your home, you will need to provide vigilant supervision at all times. But ferrets can generally be trained to get along with cats and dogs. Note, however, that terriers and similar dogs were originally bred to hunt. If you have a dog or cat, you will want to introduce them to your ferret gradually, and vice versa. You will need two people, one to hold the cat or dog and one to hold the ferret. Allow your pets to smell each other while providing encouragement and reassurance-your cat or dog will be bewildered and anxious as well, so be certain to provide them with extra attention. Let the animals' behavior guide you. As they seem to accept each other, you can gradually allow them to interact freely under close supervision. Make certain, however, that the ferret has an escape route available. And no matter how well your pets seem to get along, you will want to be sure to continue to provide supervision when they are together. Feed them separately and be certain that you don't allow your ferret to play with your other animal's toys. Aggressiveness Ferrets must be taught not to nip or bite, much the same way that kittens and puppies are taught what behavior is appropriate. A domestically bred ferret will usually not be vicious or aggressive, but it is in its nature to enjoy games that simulate hunting, tug-of-war, chasing, or mock combat. A young ferret will not understand what hurts you and what doesn't hurt you until you communicate the boundaries. It will be up to you to establish those boundaries appropriately, without hurting your ferret or teaching it to fear or mistrust you. Some ferrets do respond to fear, pain, or to certain noises or actions by biting. The key to altering that behavior is to understand and eliminate the underlying reason. If it is a noise, eliminate the source of the noise. If it is some action on your part, try to assess your behavior from your ferret's point of view. Your ferret isn't doing it to be mean or with the intent to harm you. What Age to Get Because ferrets retain a lot of wild tendencies, they require affection, care, and understanding. Without the necessary time, patience, or knowledge of a ferret's needs, unfortunately some people do get into trouble with discipline. As a result, ferrets are neglected or even abused, and then given away or resold. Most of the older ferrets that you encounter when searching for your new pet will not fall into this category. If you are not able to devote the added time and energy required for raising a kit, adopting or rescuing an older animal may be the perfect solution. Just be careful to understand why it is being given away or how it came to be abandoned, and be doubly certain that you will be able to give it a good environment. If you wish to get a kit, for most people, the ideal age kit will be between eight to sixteen weeks, although they are often sold as little as six weeks old. A kit less than eight weeks is not really old enough to leave its mother and siblings, and it is best to wait until they are 12 weeks old. A kit, while requiring more time, training, and patience than a mature ferret, will reward you with added playfulness and adaptability; and you will have the joy of watching it grow. How Many Ferrets Depending on the companionship, time, and home environment that you can provide, your ferret may be happier having you to itself. Alternatively, you may wish to have other ferrets to provide companionship when you can't. Ferrets are playful, so they like to have interaction and lots to do. There are some people who point out that the ferret's wild relatives are solitary animals. On the other hand, many ferret owners observe how delightfully ferrets will play together. The choice of how many ferrets you will have is up to you; however, if you wish to have more than one ferret it usually works best if you obtain them both when they are young and then introduce them gradually, as described above for introducing a cat or dog. Male or Female Jills (female ferrets) and hobs (male ferrets) each have their advantages, most of which have to do with the reproductive cycle. If you wish to breed your ferret, then you will need to do more research. If you do not intend to breed ferrets, then it is kinder to spay or neuter your pet. An unaltered, unmated jill will remain in "heat" for six months out of each year, and that will involve changes in her behavior as well as her physical characteristics. In addition, the hormones involved can increase the risk of leukemia and stress-related illnesses. An unaltered male can become aggressive to other males during breeding season, and you should be aware of this tendency if you intend to keep more than one ferret at a time. Another argument in favor of neutering is the issue of scent. Buying a Healthy Ferret While the color, age, or gender of a ferret may not matter in the long run, the health of your new pet matters very much. As you pick out your new ferret, you need to be sure that it is in the best of health. The key to judging a healthy ferret is in its behavior and general appearance. A healthy ferret should be playful, alert, and curious. Its eyes should be bright, its ears should be erect, and its movements should be smooth and supple. There should be no discharge from its ears, nose, mouth, eyes, anus, or sexual openings, and its ears, mouth, and pads should be pink and clean. Scented or Descented Healthy ferrets naturally have only a slight musky odor that comes from a gland under the skin. But they also have a scent sac near the anus, and some of the scent is passed in the feces to help the animals mark their territory. Males also have stronger-scented urine. Descenting your ferret, removing the scent sac, will not help the natural musky healthy odor and it can lead to a host of medical problems. Neutered ferrets will rarely release their scent unless they are extremely agitated or frightened. Even then the scent dissipates quickly and can be treated with special solvents or left to evaporate on its own. Keeping your litterboxes scrupulously clean can also control any unwanted odor. Litter Training Unlike cats, ferrets don't naturally prefer to use a litterbox. But they can be trained. Start a ferret using a corner box inside its cage or in a very small area, and then gradually allow more freedom as it continues to use the box. You may need to keep a small amount of dirty litter in the pan for a little while to help your pet understand the box's purpose, and you can discourage the ferret from using other corners of the room or enclosure by covering them with bedding or food bowls. Use lots of positive reinforcement-verbal praise and petting along with treats. Prepare to be patient, to regress now and then, to clean up mistakes very carefully using an enzyme or bacterial-based odor remover, and to be vigilant until your pet gets the hang of it. Ferret-Proofing Your Home In addition to litter training, you will want to take some additional precautions for your ferret's safety and for the safety of your home and possessions. Because of their curiosity and energy as well as their physiology, ferrets can-and do-squeeze into very small spaces. Depending on the size of your ferret (hobs are about twice as big as jills), you will want to be certain to block all holes over 1/2" x 1". Be particularly cautious around kitchen appliances, cabinets, and heating and ventilation ducts. Protect electrical cords and outlets. Block doorways with specially designed safety gates, or with wood or Plexiglas pieces slotted into the doorframe. And be extra certain to watch your feet-and ask any guests to your home to watch their feet. Ferrets are prone to playing literally underfoot. Furniture is another area of concern. Ferrets like to nest, so be wary of allowing them near couches, sofas, beds, and sofa beds. Fasten heavy fabric or thin plywood across the bottoms of couches, sofas, etc. Avoid futons, which are difficult to safeguard. And be wary of springs or levers inside sofabeds or reclining chairs. Also, because ferrets love to nibble on floor fabrics, you may need to place a plastic carpet protector over any sections that your pet finds especially appetizing. Be extra careful to safeguard the contents of drawers and cabinets to prevent your ferret from opening them, and to keep medicines, soaps, cleaners, etc. safely out of your ferret's reach. Close toilet lids to avoid drowning accidents, and supervise sinks, bathtubs, buckets, etc. any time that they are filled with water. Aquariums should also be covered. Be wary of your ferret with houseplants. Many plants are dangerous, toxic, or deadly, and you should check every plant in your home for safety before allowing your ferret to run loose. To keep your ferret from chewing on your "safe" plants, you can try coating the leaves with Bitter Apple or a similar solution. Like a cat, dog, or child, you will need to protect your ferret from suffocation hazards including plastic bags and drapery cords. But because of your ferret's small size, you will need to also consider items like the cardboard tubes that hold toilet paper, paper towels, or gift wrap. These may seem like inexpensive toys, but they can pose a danger to your pet. Toys Ferrets love to play, so be sure to provide lots of toys in lots of variety for them. The more that they have to do, the less mischief they will be inclined to find. (If you don't provide a toy, they'll find or make one!) And, you will delight in watching them at play. Most cat toys are great for ferrets, but ferrets are harder on them than a cat would be. They chew more vigorously, and foam or rubber or small parts can get lodged in their windpipes or cause intestinal blockage. Be sure to buy toys that are durable. Specially made ferret tunnels, hammocks, and swings are also great favorites and will provide hours of amusement. Food Your ferret needs plenty of fresh water and a diet high in fat and protein. While many ferret owners feed cat or kitten food, that is in large part because there are simply very few ferret foods available. Kaytee makes a good ferret food specially formulated for your pet's nutritional requirements, and we offer it through our Web site or mail-order catalog. In any case, avoid fish and fish-flavored cat food, which can create a litterbox odor problem, and do not feed your ferret dog food as that will fill your ferret up without providing some of the necessary nutrients. Do not feed human snacks to your ferret, as many foods are toxic or indigestible. Avoid chocolate, caffeine, tobacco products, colas, coffee, tea, ice cream, milk, and onions. Ferrets do need variety, though, and they will do just about anything for a treat-including learning tricks such as sitting up, walking to heel, begging, and rolling over. You can reward your pet for desirable behaviors or just add variety to your ferret's diet with vegetables, fruits, and treats. Safe, specially formulated ferret treats are available through companies like Ferret Fiesta, in flavors ranging from carob raisin to peanut butter.
So you've decided to get a puppy? If you are thinking about getting one from a pet store or on-line, please be careful. That cute puppy most likely came from a puppy mill. Definition of a puppy mill: A puppy mill, sometimes known as a puppy farm, is a commercial dog breeding facility that is operated with an emphasis upon profits above animal welfare and is often in substandard conditions regarding the well-being of dogs in their care. Similar types of operations exist for other animals most commonly kept as pets or used as feed for other animals. The term can be applied to operations involving other animals commercially bred for profit, e.g. "kitty mills." There are an estimated 4,000 puppy mills in the U.S. that produce more than half a million puppies a year. Commercial kennels may be licensed by the United States Department of Agriculture which may inspect the kennels routinely. Please share, and remember "Adoption is an Option!"
Whales are not just the biggest mammals on this planet, but also the most magnificent. They’re so great, in fact, that a whole country was named after them. If you’ve ever been whale-watching, you’ll know just how incredible it is to see them in the flesh. But no matter how close you got, you probably didn’t quite get this near to them. This insane footage was captured by David Rogers while he was kayaking half a mile offshore at Moss Landing in California and shows the crazy moment a whale breaches just inches away from him and his kayak. The video – which is very wobbly, as it would be if you’re in a tiny kayak when a whale breaches right next to you – shows fish almost flying out of the water as the whale breaks through the surface. Thankfully, David, who’s a civil engineer, managed to keep hold of his phone and capture the exhilarating moment as it happened. “It all happened so quick, there wasn’t much time to think,” he said. “I knew the whales were not out to attack or hurt me. I remained calm and tried to keep my balance as one whale pushed my kayak to almost the tipping point.” It’s the latest in a number of spectacular sea creature moments captured on video in recent months, including a bunch of dolphins playing with a humpback whale and the savage moment a shark attacked another shark. Most incredible of all, however, is the footage showing a whale protecting a diver from a shark by using his fin – and even lifting the diver out of the water at one point. All of which poses the question that, if we can co-exist with other animals who are totally different from us, why do humans find it so hard to live together peacefully? But that’s a whole other philosophical conversation that would last years without coming to any decent conclusion so we’ll drop it. Instead, we’ll just keep watching this wonderful moment and hope that, at some point in the future, we get to experience something equally as exhilarating firsthand.
The summer is here...and it's time for cooking out, time for an afternoon filled with family, fun, and great food. However, if you are a dog owner these fun filled parties can be dangerous for your dog. Most people wouldn't think a family cookout could pose a danger to your dog, but there are some very real dangers you have to watch out for. Here are some tips to ensure your dog and guest are safe during a cookout. No feeding the dog
Inform your guest that they should not feed your pet. It can becoming tempting to hand Fido a piece of chicken off of their plate. However, there are a large number of human foods, and ingredients that aren't good for dogs. They can cause anything from a mild stomach upset to death, so it's extremely important not to allow your dog to eat anything other than dog food. Pancreatitis, is a serious and potentially fatal inflammation of the pancreas, is often caused when pets eat "greasy, spicy, fatty foods--exactly what people eat at barbecues.
Try and keep your dog away from the area where people are eating. Make sure that the guest inform their children not to feed the dog.
Even if you are conscientious about not giving your pet barbecue food, you can't control your guests, especially children. It's almost impossible to resist when a dog begs, especially if it's not your dog. Keep children away from the dog.
If you are having guest at your home who are not familiar with your dog, it is best to keep your dog away from the cookout. Children, just being children will want to play and feed the dog. Keeping the dog and kids separate is easier than explaining why your dog bit their child.
Keep the dog away from the grill
Most dogs are controlled by their nose. The smell of the food cooking can excite a dog and they may hang around or run into the grill.
Keep your pet away from matches, citronella candles and lighter fluid, which if eaten can irritate the stomach, lungs and central nervous system. Before you light that hot grill make sure your four legged family member is out of harms way.
Barbecues on Memorial Day and other holidays often lead to trash bags full of bones and other unsafe items that are extremely attractive to pets. Keep pets away from the garbage.
Even though it seems like a bummer, your pet is better off in a bedroom, with an air conditioner, some cold water, and the door closed, safe and sound, away from all that food and temptation. With a little thought and careful consideration a summer cookout can be fun for every member of the family including the furry ones.
Law enforcement officials are investigating a string of brutal feline deaths in Washington State that authorities say could be the work of a serial cat killer. Five cats have been killed in Thurston County, Washington, since February, according officials with the Thurston County Joint Animal Services. Local media outlets have reported as many as two other cats that have been found killed. Erika Johnson, an animal cruelty services investigator for Thurston County Animal Services, said the pets were found cut open, with their spines were removed, in a similar fashion to the other cases. The cats were apparently cut with a scalpel and placed in areas where they were likely to be found. "The cats are usually left in public places after they are killed," a release from Pasado's Safe Haven said. "Investigators believe these cases are linked due to similar mutilations done to the cats' bodies (removal of the spine)." The latest killing involved a deaf tabby cat named Harley, whose body was found by a neighbor in West Olympia on Sunday, not far from where another cat was found mutilated on Friday. “I went to bed and then in the morning, he’s usually right there at the door waiting for me and he wasn’t there,” Harley’s owner, Kathy Harrigan told local station KCPQ. “Shortly afterwards, the police came by and asked if we were missing our cat and it turns out that he was dead on our neighbor’s lawn and had been mutilated.” Law enforcement officials in Thurston County went door to door on Saturday and Sunday, warning pet owners and looking for possible surveillance footage. Authorities said there were two similar cases in February and two last month near Olympia. A case from last October is also believed to be connected. Harrigan, Harley’s owner, said she plans to install security cameras on her property. “It’s really kind of terrifying; does it stop with cats? And, then the fact that this person had laid his body out for everyone to see is really disturbing,” Harrigan told KCPQ. "So, people are going to start keeping their cats indoors now. A lot of people had felt free to let their cats be outdoors but not anymore.” Pasado's Safe Haven is offering a $3,000 reward for information leading to an arrest and conviction in the case.
The photo of this Albino Burmese Python looks so real, Francesca Pitcher of North Star Cakes in Kent, U.K., was prompted to add this tagline: "****I DO NOT SELL SNAKES****. This photo is of a snake CAKE made to look like an Amelanistic Burmese Python for a birthday party." Yes, the snake is a fake. It's a fake snake cake. And it truly is awesome, as many of the commenters on North Star Cakes' Facebook page have stated emphatically. "The detail is absolutely spot-on!! As a long-time reptile keeper I know you would do well to advertise this in local pet shops and reptile specialists." Indeed. Just take a look at this real Albino Burmese Python for comparison sake. The fake snake cake has an incredible resemblance to the real Albino Burmese Python, which is one of the six largest snakes in the world with most averaging 12-feet long. But it can grow up to 19 feet, and, if not handled properly, can be quite dangerous. The only danger with Pitcher's snake, however, is to the waistline. According to the UK Daily Mail, Pitcher's now-6-year-old daughter Claudia, who loves reptiles, wanted a spooky-themed birthday party. She wanted something that would scare her friends. Pitcher suggested a snake cake. She regretted that idea immediately and for good reason. Pitcher has a snake phobia. From the UK Daily Mail: 'At first I couldn't even look at the images of them online but as I kept researching them I realised they weren't so bad and had quite beautiful patterns. 'Once I had got over my phobia I just cracked on with it...' Over the course of three days, Pitcher spent 12 hours baking and shaping sponge layers, using "a white chocolate fondant with special dye to make the skin and replicate the distinctive markings of the dangerous snake," according to the Daily Mail. As it turned out, none of the kids at the birthday party were afraid of the snake. Instead, they fought over who was going to eat the head. Would you eat this cake?
For those of you interested in making a Snake Cake!
What happens when one of the world’s largest animals hurts its eye? She gets a giant contact lens, of course. A vet at Amsterdam’s Artis Zoo fitted elephant Win Thida with the protective lens last week in an hour-long procedure, the first of its kind in Europe, the zoo said. The animal’s cornea was likely damaged by a branch while roughhousing with her mates, and each time she blinked, it further irritated the wound. The contact was fitted to help her right eye – eight times the size of a human’s – heal without complications.
Animal ophthalmologist Anne-Marie Verbruggen leans into Win Thida's stall at Amsterdam's Artis Zoo during an hour-long procedure to fit a contact in her right eye. So how exactly does one perform eye surgery on an elephant? Win Thida, who weighs in at just above 4 tons, was lightly sedated, given an eye anesthetic and enclosed in her stall to prevent her from moving too much during the procedure. A specialist eye vet, who regularly fits horses with contacts, performed the surgery from a ladder while leaning into the stall. Win Thida couldn’t be put to sleep as elephants can’t lie down for long periods without developing breathing trouble.
Animal ophthalmologist Anne-Marie Verbruggen inserts a contact lens into Win Thida's eye to help her damaged cornea heal. The vets expect that the super-size contact will fall out of the 44-year-old elephant’s eye after several weeks, although if it doesn’t, there will be another trip up the ladder for the doc who performed the surgery. After spending nearly a month squeezing her eye shut in pain, she was “instantly better” after the procedure, the zoo said. Zookeepers first noticed Win Thida’s injury when creams and painkillers did little to help, vets decided to insert the lens.
FOLLOW US!
Beluga whales are usually very social and they always can be seen communicating and playing with each other in a playful way but this female beluga whale is not like other typical beluga whales. Meet Tina, the female beluga whale who lives in a zoo in South Korea. Everything about Tina seems typical except one thing; she has fallen in love with her zookeeper! This is the lucky zookeeper whom Tina fell in love with.
She refuses to kiss anyone but the zookeeper.
Tina only wants to communicate and play with the zookeeper will shoot water at anyone who stands too close to him.
The beluga whale also only wants to play with the zookeeper and ignores the other staff even when they approach her in a nice and friendly way. So, how did Tina learn to be jealous?
According to the zookeeper, Tina had a hard time adapting when she first came to the zoo.
While other zookeepers were treating her nicely, the male zookeeper paid her a lot of attention which might be the main reason why Tina feels safe when he is around.
However, there may be another reason why Tina behaves in that way. What do you think it could be? Watch this hilarious video about Tina and her zookeeper to find out more
1. Ear Mites Ear mites are tiny little bugs that set up shop in your rabbit’s ears. The ear will look really crusty, brown, and itchy. So if you see your rabbits scratching their ears a lot, check them. After having a bout with ear mites, I now check my rabbit’s ears almost daily to be sure I keep a jump on them. But if your rabbits get ear mites, don’t feel bad. My rabbits live in really clean conditions and are fed a proper diet and still ended up with them. What I found in my research is that ear mites often live in hay. Well, if you are feeding your rabbits a proper diet it should include mainly hay. If you notice your rabbits ears are full of gunk, then it is time to get to work. You’ll need a dropper ( I actually use a squirt bottle like this.) Then fill it with oil of any kind. I usually use vegetable oil because it is inexpensive, and then place a few drops of oil in the infected ear twice a day for 7 days. This smothers the ear mites and relieves the crusty skin from the ear. However, it is important to mention, do NOT pick the scabs out of your rabbit’s ears. They will clear up naturally. Picking at it will be painful for your rabbit and also open them up to more possibility of infection. Just let the oil do the work. But you can try to prevent ear mites by keeping hay in a hay feeder and not just allowing your rabbits to lay in it. I also try to put a drop of oil in each of my rabbits’ ears once a week as a preventative measure for ear mites.
2. Snuffles You need to realize up front that it is not normal for an animal to ‘get a cold.’ I made this mistake with my chickens and lost a large portion of my flock one year. So when you see that your rabbits have nasal discharge or are sniffling then you need to pay attention to what is happening. Other symptoms of the snuffles are matted paws, sneezing, and watery eyes. Basically, this disease is best prevented by keeping your rabbits on a healthy diet and also keeping your rabbitry clean. The snuffles is a bacteria so if you keep their immune system ready to fight while also not giving bacteria a place to grow, then you should stay ahead of this disease. However, if by some chance your rabbits develop this disease, then it is usually best to try and treat them with antibiotics, though they are not guaranteed to treat this illness. So the best way to defeat this disease is to never let it set-up with your rabbits.
3. Heat Stroke Heat stroke is something you have to really pay attention to when it comes to keeping rabbits. The reason is that they are very well insulated. So on blistery cold nights you might be fearful of them freezing to death. When in reality if you provide a way to block the wind and give them extra hay (as chewing keeps them warm), then your rabbits should be just fine. However, summer is a different story. Your rabbits need to be kept in the shade with lots of water as heat can quickly get to them. So if your rabbit is lethargic and it is warmer outside, then you’ll need to act quickly. Be sure to quickly decrease their body temperature by spraying them gently with cool water. Then you will need to take them to a vet so they can be treated with IV fluids. But your best bet is to try to avoid heat stroke all together. You can do this by giving your rabbits frozen water bottles. They can lay next to these bottles and absorb some of the cool. Also, you can blow a fan on your rabbits indirectly so cool air can circulate around them. Don’t blow it directly on them as this can cause problems for your rabbit.
4. GI Stasis GI Stasis is a serious and often fatal disease. Your best bet is to completely prevent the disease by feeding your rabbits a diet high in fiber which basically means giving them lots of hay. However, you will recognize GI Stasis because your rabbit will become bloated, lethargic, suffer from loss of appetite, not drink fluids, and also quit going to the bathroom. If your bun starts showing any of these signs it is important to give them lots of fluids and hay. As well as massage their bellies. But if you see no movement in their systems, it might be time to call your vet as it could potentially require surgery. 5. Sore Hocks If you’ve ever seen a rabbit with sore hocks, it just looks painful. But the good news is that sore hocks is easily preventable. So sore hocks is when the rabbit is either living in less than ideal conditions, or they have no where to rest their feet and their feet become callused and sore on the bottoms. Which are two important things to keep in mind if you are raising rabbits in wire hutches. It is important to provide your rabbits with either nesting boxes to rest their feet in, a board to rest their feet on, or to provide them with mats. However, if you have a larger breed rabbit this is very common with them where they have so much weight on their hocks. So be sure that they especially have really clean living conditions and lots of room to rest their feet. 6. Bloat Bloat is a big deal! If your rabbit develops this it will most likely be a fatal blow to them. So the best way to handle bloat is to prevent it from happening. But first things first, bloat is when your rabbit’s stomach has an imbalance of bacteria in it. This causes their bellies to look like a balloon and begin to swell. This disease happens when your rabbit eats too much green food, wet grass clippings, moldy food, not enough fiber in their diet, if they are fed irregularly, or if they eat food that is spoiled. So keep this in mind when feeding your rabbits. We feed our rabbits protein pellets, but they eat mainly a diet of hay. During the warmer months we use fresh vegetables and weeds as a treat, but they do not get them regularly for this very reason. We also feed our rabbits fodder. They love it, but they don’t get an excessive amount of it either. It is important to pay attention to what you feed your rabbits. Also, you should pay attention to their poop. Make sure that they are still going regularly and that everything looks like it should. 7. Coccidiosis This is something you hear talked about regularly if you belong to any type of rabbit group online. As soon as someone posts a stomach issue with their rabbit this dreaded disease is one of the first suggestions thrown out there. But I’m very grateful for all of the information that has been shared in some of the groups I belong to because I learned a lot about Coccidiosis (also referred to as Cocci.) This is why I stopped raising my rabbits in a colony setting. It makes breeding hard to keep up with and cleaning a lot more difficult too. So out of fear that my rabbits would develop this horrible disease I decided hutches were a safer bet. Much to my surprise, my rabbits actually appear much happier in a hutch. I think they feel more secure. But as far as cocci goes, you’ll know your rabbits could possibly have it if they begin to develop diarrhea, have a lack of appetite, won’t drink, become very weak, and their stomach appears bloated. This is a disease that is carried my parasites. The parasites set up shop in the gut of the rabbit and therefore is spread through their feces. It is usually fatal and will often times set up in baby kits around the ages of 4-6 weeks. If you are raising your rabbits for meat, you’ll need to pay attention for this disease because you will not want to eat a rabbit that has been impacted by this disease. 8. Flystrike This is a terrible disease and one that I hope you will be able to keep from your rabbits. Flystrike happens when flies lay their eggs in moist areas of skin on a rabbit. These eggs will hatch into maggots within 24 hours. They then will live under your rabbit’s skin and release poison that will kill your rabbit. Again, the best method to treat this disease is to prevent it. You will need to be sure that your rabbit’s hind quarters are kept very clean. If you have a rabbit that is overweight or a female that has a large dewlap, then it may be hard for them to clean themselves properly. If this is the case, be sure to clean your rabbits daily. Also, be sure to keep their hutches clean and make sure your rabbit does not sit around in soil bedding. You’ll also want to limit the amount of fresh veggies and grass they get as this causes diarrhea which also attracts flies. But if you notice maggots attached to your rabbit’s hind quarters, you’ll need to immediately call your vet. They will be able to administer treatment in a way that won’t harm your rabbit. However, if you aren’t near a vet, then you will need to carefully administer these next steps. First, you’ll need to grab the tweezer and begin pulling the maggots out of your rabbit’s skin. Then you’ll want to soak your rabbit’s bum in warm water. But be sure to dry their hind quarters thoroughly after the fact. Next, you’ll need to carefully shave off any dirty or soiled hair around their bum. But you must be careful as rabbit’s skin is very thin and you could really harm your rabbit. Finally, you’ll need to administer antibiotics to your rabbit to insure that no infection sets up. But again, if you have the ability to get to a vet, I’d recommend letting them do these steps as they are able to sedate your rabbit so nothing is uncomfortable for them while they receive this treatment. 9. Head Tilt Head tilt is another disease that is very common to hear about in rabbit groups, but I’ve also been very thankful for all of the knowledge I’ve gained on this topic from the groups too. So head tilt is when your bunny flops his head to one side. It is also referred to as wry neck. Their eyes often go side to side in a rapid movement too. The reason for head tilt is many, and the treatment will depend upon the reason. I’ll go ahead and tell you, a vet will be the only true way to determine what has caused your rabbit’s head tilt. These are what can potentially cause rabbit head tilt: Trauma: A blow to the head can cause brain damage which equates to the rabbit holding his head to one side or the other permanently. Cancer: If your rabbit has a tumor growing in his head, neck, or spine this could cause the rabbit to develop head tilt. Stroke: We often see similar physical signs in humans that have had a stroke. A rabbit really isn’t all that different. So if your rabbit suddenly develops heads tilt don’t count out the idea of them having had a stroke. Middle/Inner Ear Infection: If your rabbit has an ear infection, it could be causing signs of vertigo which equates to him leaning his head over. There are a few other reasons as well such as: cervical muscle contraction, intoxication, and cerebral larva migrans. But as mentioned above, there is no way of knowing exactly what has happened to your rabbit without the help of a vet. Then understanding what caused the issue will make the treatment vary greatly. 10. Red Urine The first time I encountered this with my rabbits, I was so glad I had done my research and participated in rabbit groups because I knew what I was looking at. So red urine just means that your rabbit is urinating a reddish, pinkish, or maybe even a brownish color. But don’t panic. It usually just means that they’ve been eating too much of something like carrots for instance. However, if nothing in their diet has changed, or they keep urinating odd colors after the food has cleared their system, then it might be wise to get a urine sample and let a vet check it out. Obviously, there are a lot more illnesses that occur in rabbits. But I do hope that this overview of some common illnesses with rabbits will help you as you raise your own rabbits whether it be for farming purposes or as a pet. Take a look at the video below:
One complaint of new or non-ferret owners is ferret smell. Remember that ALL animals, even humans, have their own unique smell. Mammals have musk glands that produce scented secretions which allow animals to identify and communicate with each other. Humans are used to the smells of some other animals, such as people, cats, and dogs; but to the uninitiated nose, natural ferret aroma may be an unusual surprise.
